Cage Size — The Modern Minimum

• 100cm × 50cm minimum unbroken floor space (5,000 sq cm) — for ALL hamster species, including dwarfs
• Deep bedding: 6–10 inches (15–25cm) of paper-based substrate for burrowing — a fundamental natural behaviour
• Wire-top cages rarely provide sufficient floor space. Glass tanks or large bins (with ventilation) are often the best enclosures
• Multi-level cages: upper floors do NOT count toward the minimum floor space

Syrian vs Dwarf

Wheel Size — Getting It Right

• Syrian: Minimum 27–32cm (11–12 inches) diameter
• Dwarf: Minimum 20–22cm (8 inches) diameter
• Solid running surface only — wire mesh wheels trap feet and cause bumblefoot
• A wheel that’s too small forces the hamster to arch their spine, causing permanent injury

Wet Tail — A Veterinary Emergency

• Severe bacterial infection causing watery diarrhoea, wetness around the tail, lethargy, hunched posture
• Most common in young Syrians aged 3–10 weeks, often triggered by stress
• Fatal within 48 hours without treatment — see a vet immediately
• Treatment: antibiotics, fluid therapy, supportive care

FAQs

How long do hamsters live?

The average lifespan of a UK pet hamster is approximately 1.75 years (21 months) according to the Royal Veterinary College. Syrians typically live 2–3 years, Russian/Winter White dwarfs 1.5–2 years, and Roborovski hamsters 3–3.5 years. Good husbandry significantly impacts lifespan: appropriate cage size, deep bedding, correct wheel, stress-free environment, and species-appropriate diet (high-quality pellets, not muesli) all contribute to a longer, healthier life.

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The Vitamin C Requirement

Guinea pigs, like humans, cannot produce their own Vitamin C. Deficiency causes scurvy — swollen joints, lethargy, poor coat, weight loss, difficulty walking, and increased infection susceptibility.

• Adults need 10–20mg daily; pregnant guinea pigs need 30–40mg
• Best dietary sources: bell peppers (red and green), parsley, kale, spring greens, pak choi
• Vitamin C in pellets degrades quickly — don’t rely on it as the sole source
• Do NOT add Vitamin C to water — it breaks down rapidly when exposed to light and air

Must Live in Pairs or Groups

Guinea pigs are herd animals and must never be kept alone. Reputable rescues will not rehome a single guinea pig. The best pairing is two neutered males or two females. Bond on neutral territory with multiple hideaways.

Housing

• Minimum cage: 120cm × 60cm for two guinea pigs — but bigger is always better
• Smooth-bottomed (no wire) to prevent bumblefoot
• Added levels do not substitute for floor space — guinea pigs are not climbers
• Indoor housing preferred (temperature control, predator protection, easier interaction)

Diet — 80–90% Hay

• Unlimited Timothy Hay — essential for digestion and dental wear
• Daily cup of Vitamin C-rich fresh vegetables
• Small amount of guinea pig pellets (one eggcup/20g per pig per day)
• Fresh water always available (bottle with sipper tube, changed daily)

FAQs

What are the most common guinea pig health problems?

The 2024 RVC study found that the most common issues in UK guinea pigs are: overgrown nails (affecting over 25% annually — regular trims essential), ringworm (fungal skin infection), eye ulcers (often from hay poking), dental disease (insufficient hay causes tooth overgrowth), respiratory infections (URIs — can be fatal if untreated), and bumblefoot (painful foot sores from wire cage floors or lack of exercise). Most of these are preventable with proper husbandry, diet, and housing.

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Vaccinations — Critical Update for 2026

• Rabbits need protection against three diseases: Myxomatosis, RVHD1, and RVHD2
• 2026 update: A “highly virulent” new strain of RVHD2 has been identified in Europe. Two separate vaccinations are now recommended annually — a combined Myxo/RVHD1/RVHD2 vaccine PLUS a separate RVHD2-specific vaccine, given 2+ weeks apart
• Even indoor rabbits must be vaccinated — the viruses spread via insects, wild rabbits, and contaminated surfaces (shoes, clothing)
• Vaccinations can start from 5–7 weeks of age

Housing

• RWAF minimum: 3m × 2m × 1m high for a pair — continuously accessible. A hutch is only a shelter, not a home
• Hutch minimum: 6ft × 2ft × 2ft (1.8m × 0.6m × 0.6m) attached to a larger secure run
• Outdoor runs must be predator-proof: 16-gauge wire minimum, protection against digging
• Indoor rabbits need the same minimum space, even with free-roaming access

Diet — 80–90% Hay

• Unlimited hay: Timothy Hay or Meadow Hay — essential for digestion and dental wear (teeth grow ~2mm/week)
• Small amount of fresh leafy greens daily
• Limited pellets — approximately one eggcup per rabbit per day
• Avoid muesli-style food — rabbits selectively feed, causing nutritional imbalances

Neutering

• 90% of unneutered female rabbits develop uterine cancer by age 5 — spaying is essential
• UK costs: Males £110–185, Females £215–225
• Males can be castrated from 10–12 weeks; females spayed around 4–5 months

FAQs

Can rabbits live alone?

No — rabbits are social animals that suffer from loneliness when kept solo. The ideal pairing is a neutered male and a neutered female, bonded gradually on neutral territory. Same-sex pairs can work, especially if from the same litter. Bonding takes days to months and requires patience. Once bonded, rabbits should never be separated — even vet visits should include both together.

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The condition is caused by bacteria — most commonly Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas, and Escherichia coli — that enter through small cuts, abrasions, or pressure sores on the feet. These bacteria are present naturally in the animal’s environment, which is why housing conditions are the single most important factor in both prevention and treatment.

What Does Bumblefoot Look Like?

Bumblefoot progresses through recognisable stages:

1. Stage 1 (mild): Redness, slight swelling, and smoothing of the normal scale or skin pattern on the foot pads. The animal may not yet show signs of pain.
2. Stage 2 (moderate): Noticeable swelling with a visible dark or brown scab (the characteristic “bumble”). The animal may limp, shift weight, or be reluctant to move.
3. Stage 3 (severe): Large, firm or pus-filled abscess. Open sores, oozing discharge, and clear signs of pain — reduced appetite, weight loss, lethargy.
4. Stage 4 (critical): Deep infection reaching tendons and bone. Risk of septicaemia. Veterinary emergency.

Which Animals Get Bumblefoot?

Causes and Risk Factors

• Inappropriate flooring: Wire cage bottoms, hard surfaces, rough substrates — the single biggest cause. Wire floors create constant pressure points that damage the skin barrier.
• Poor hygiene: Dirty, wet bedding allows bacteria to proliferate and enter through micro-abrasions.
• Obesity: Excess body weight increases pressure on the feet. Around 50% of bumblefoot cases involve overweight animals.
• Overgrown nails: Alter weight distribution across the foot, concentrating pressure on specific areas.
• Vitamin C deficiency (guinea pigs): Guinea pigs cannot synthesise vitamin C, and deficiency weakens skin integrity — directly increasing bumblefoot risk.
• Vitamin A deficiency (birds): Impairs skin healing and immune function.
• Lack of exercise: Sedentary animals maintain constant pressure on the same foot areas.
• Incorrect perches (birds): Perches of a single diameter, or made from sandpaper or rough concrete, cause chronic pressure damage.

Treatment

⚠️ Bumblefoot always requires veterinary treatment. Home treatment alone is insufficient for anything beyond the mildest Stage 1 cases.

• Antibiotics: Prescribed after culture and sensitivity testing to identify the specific bacteria and the most effective antibiotic. Commonly systemic (oral or injectable) rather than topical alone.
• Wound care: Cleaning the affected area with veterinary-grade antiseptic (dilute povidone-iodine or chlorhexidine). Bandaging to protect the wound and prevent re-infection.
• Pain relief: Anti-inflammatory and analgesic medications — bumblefoot is extremely painful, and untreated pain causes the animal to shift weight to other feet, potentially causing bilateral bumblefoot.
• Surgical debridement: In advanced cases, the vet may need to surgically remove dead tissue and drain abscesses under anaesthesia.
• Environment correction: Treatment is pointless without simultaneously correcting the housing conditions that caused the infection.

Prevention: The Complete Guide

For Guinea Pigs and Rabbits

• Replace wire floors with solid flooring immediately. Wire-bottomed cages are the single leading cause of bumblefoot in small animals.
• Provide deep, soft bedding: Paper-based bedding (Kaytee Clean & Cozy), fleece liners, or soft hay. Changed regularly (spot-clean daily, full change weekly).
• Maintain healthy weight through appropriate diet and exercise space.
• Trim nails every 2-4 weeks to maintain correct weight distribution.
• Ensure adequate vitamin C (guinea pigs): fresh vegetables daily (bell peppers, broccoli, kale) plus a vitamin C supplement if needed.
• Inspect feet weekly — early detection makes treatment significantly simpler and more successful.

For Birds (Chickens, Parrots, Pet Birds)

• Provide varied perch sizes: Multiple perches of different diameters exercise different parts of the foot. Natural branches are ideal — they provide textural variety and slight irregularity that prevents constant pressure on a single point.
• Avoid sandpaper and concrete perches — these abrade the foot skin and directly cause bumblefoot.
• Keep perches clean — faecal contamination introduces bacteria to any existing micro-wounds.
• Ensure balanced diet with adequate vitamin A (for skin health) — particularly important for parrots on seed-only diets.
• Soft ground substrate for chickens and ground-dwelling birds — grass, straw, or wood chips rather than concrete or bare earth.

When to See a Vet

See a vet immediately if you notice any redness, swelling, or sores on your pet’s feet. Bumblefoot is far easier (and cheaper) to treat in Stage 1 than in Stage 3 or 4. Early-stage bumblefoot may resolve with environmental changes, topical treatment, and oral antibiotics alone. Advanced bumblefoot may require surgery, extended hospitalisation, and carries a risk of recurrence or systemic infection.

Related Reading

• How Is Bird Flu Affecting UK Chickens?
• How To Prevent Your Parrot From Flying Away
• What You Need In Your Chicken Coop
• 21 of the Best Garden Pond Ideas for Inspiration

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most important thing to know about What Is Bumblefoot? Causes, Treatment & Prevention?

Bumblefoot — medically known as ulcerative pododermatitis — is an inflammatory bacterial infection of the feet that affects guinea pigs, rabbits, chickens, parrots, rats, and other small animals and birds. It begins as redness and mild swelling on the foot pads and, if untreated, progresses t…

What should I know about Treatment?

The condition is caused by bacteria — most commonly Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas, and Escherichia coli — that enter through small cuts, abrasions, or pressure sores on the feet. These bacteria are present naturally in the animal’s environment, which is why housing conditions are the single most important factor in both prevention and treatment. ⚠️ Bumblefoot always requires veteri…

What Does Bumblefoot Look Like?

Bumblefoot — medically known as ulcerative pododermatitis — is an inflammatory bacterial infection of the feet that affects guinea pigs, rabbits, chickens, parrots, rats, and other small animals and birds. It begins as redness and mild swelling on the foot pads and, if untreated, progresses through increasingly severe stages: from superficial skin inflammation to deep abscesses, bone infect…

The post What Is Bumblefoot? Causes, Treatment & Prevention Guide appeared first on Petz.

But a guinea pig‘s nails should be trimmed once per month. This is more frequent than in dogs, cats or any other pet. If their nails are not looked after, it could result in a curvature of the claws. This means they could eventually grow into the footpad, making it impossible to walk and causing pain.

Open wounds on a guinea pig‘s foot can lead to bumblefoot as well. This is a potentially fatal infection. So, trimming your guinea pig‘s claws isn’t just going to make them more comfortable, but will also limit their risk of disease. You also need to keep their living quarters clean.

When cutting a guinea pig‘s nails, you need to help them feel comfortable. Most people will do this by sitting the guinea pig on their lap and holding them securely so they don’t move and can’t flinch. But if your guinea pig isn’t keen on being handled, you will want to do this how best you see fit.

Where to cut a guinea pig nail

If you are familiar with cutting the nails of dogs and cats, you will have heard of a term called ‘the quick’. This is a blood vessel which runs through an animal’s claw. It doesn’t go right the way through, though.

So, you need to take enough off the claw to make a difference yet not enough to cut the quick. If you are nervous about this, have some styptic powder to hand. Some of this applied to a claw will stop the bleeding.

Most guinea pig nails are actually translucent, so you can spot the quick easily. This can actually make it a lot easier than cutting the nails of a dog, which is why it can be done at home rather than by a groomer or vet.

If your pet’s nails are black, shining a light underneath may give you a rough guide as to where the quick is. It will be darker and central within the claw.

How to trim a guinea pig’s nails

You will need:

• Small animal nail trimmers
• Styptic powder
• Treats
• Paper towel

The treats will act as a distraction and reward. Pick their favourite treats; if they love a certain fresh vegetable but it is limited in their diet, save it until this time of the week! A paper towel will wipe up any excess blood.

Step 1: Hold on to your guinea pig

Don’t squeeze too tight but they need to be secure. If they don’t usually like being picked up, sit on the floor and let them come to you first. Have them on your lap or on a table; their bottom needs to be secure. The treats come in handy here!

Step 2: Start cutting

Gently pick up a leg and secure it. Then, cut their first claw. If they struggle at any point, allow them to relax before continuing.

If all goes well, continue until all claws are cut.

Step 3: Reward

They need to know that what they have been through is a) necessary and b) doesn’t cause them harm. Rewarding them will make it more appealing next time. This is called positive reinforcement.

What to do if you can’t cut your guinea pig’s nails

Never just leave it – as mentioned, it can cause infection if the claws start to curve. Ask your vet how best to go about this. They may even say to just bring your guinea pig into the practice every month to have this done. It should only take a few minutes.

It shouldn’t be too expensive, either. Or, ask around local groomers to see if they’d be happy to do this service. Check they’re used to working with small animals first, though.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I Trim Your Guinea Pig’s Nails?

Guinea pig nails need regular trimming. This can be surprising for any new owners; it isn’t common to need to trim the nails of a small pet. But a guinea pig’s nails should be trimmed once per month. This is more frequent than in dogs, cats or any other pet. If their nails are not looked after, i…

What should I know about Where to cut a guinea pig nail?

If you are familiar with cutting the nails of dogs and cats, you will have heard of a term called ‘the quick’. This is a blood vessel which runs through an animal’s claw. It doesn’t go right the way through, though. So, you need to take enough off the claw to make a difference yet not enough to cut the quick. If you are nervous about this, have some styptic powder to hand. Some of this applied …

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What exactly is a gerbil?

A gerbil is a small, rodent-like animal which has been specially adapted to living in arid conditions. In the wild, this means they are found in desert-like conditions in Africa and Asia.

But of course, if kept as pets, gerbils should have been bred in the UK and will be more used to non-arid homes. Gerbil keepers should however try their best to replicate their natural habitats as much as possible.

Gerbils have long hind legs, a furry tail and thick fur. Some coats can be rough, and others can be quite soft. The fur can also be different colours and markings.

Gerbils are wonderful pets to keep, but you need to be clued up on what they need and how to care for them. You may be considering a gerbil as an alternative to a similar rodent, such as a hamster or rat. If so, read on to find out some more information.

Gerbils as pets

The Mongolian Gerbil is the most commonly kept subspecies in the UK. There are many members of the subfamily Gerbillinae, however.

They can live for 3-4 years and are found in large groups in the wild. This means you can’t just keep one gerbil on its own; a minimum of two is required. A suitable gerbilarium is needed to house them; it needs to be large, tall and a suitable material that means they won’t chew it or scatter their bedding out of it.

You need to think about how the gerbils get on together as they live so close. Mixed sexes can cause fighting, and could also mean you’re overrun with baby gerbils – a sexually mature female has a gestation period of just 24–26 days.

How much is a gerbil?

As they are very productive breeders, adopting a gerbil from a breeder will often only cost between £5 and £20. Only responsible breeders should be considered, so you know they are coming from good care conditions.

Many people do buy gerbils without knowing how best to care for them, though. This means adoption centres, such as the RSPCA, can commonly have gerbils so we would always advise checking here first. Most will have bonded groups or pairs, too, making your job a bit easier.

Females also tend to be more aggressive than males, particularly if young are introduced to the group. Therefore, beginner gerbil keepers may be best if owning males. It can also be difficult to introduce new gerbils to the group or pair, so you need to try and adopt pairs which are already bonded.

Understanding a gerbil’s needs

Gerbils are commonly kept as pets by children as they can be colourful creatures. But most don’t like being handled too much, so you really need to ensure any children are gentle, understanding and aware of what they are responsible for.

Read our gerbil care guide to understand more about their behaviour, diet and overall needs.

Gerbils in the wild

Found in Africa and Asia, as well as India, gerbils are used to desert conditions. This means high temperatures are the norm for them. However, they will dig and burrow underground to stay cool.

Digging is also a way for them to stay busy, so pet gerbils will do the same. They will also gnaw to cure boredom.

In terms of their conservation status, they are of the least concern. Their low gestation periods, and relative unpopularity as a pet, means they aren’t commonly taken from the wild for the pet trade.

They can feed on insects, worms, bird nestlings and other weaker gerbils in the wild, but don’t worry; grasses, bulbs, fruit, berries, nuts, leaves and herbs are the largest makeup of their diet. They’re omnivorous so eat anything they come across in the wild, but those bred for keeping as pets are fine eating non-meat items.

This means that, when kept as pets, gerbil pellets and other commercial foods are fine. Just check they have everything your gerbil needs; stick to well-known brands if in doubt.

The post What Is A Gerbil? appeared first on Petz.

Can I keep male and female gerbils?

How do I introduce gerbils to each other?

The post How Many Gerbils Should I Keep? appeared first on Petz.

What can I use as gerbil bedding?

Bedding for gerbils should be dust-extracted, to avoid them inhaling dangerous dust and debris. Organic soil and peat are ideal as a base because they are seen as resembling their natural environment. Then, top with some Timothy or meadow hay. Safely shredded paper is also good for nesting.

Never use fluffy materials or fabrics. This can wrap around a limb of a small animal.

A gerbilarium should always contain a nest box. But, never use wood or plastic as they can chew this. Clay flowerpots cut in half can be ideal. Always include a dedicated gerbil dust bath, too. Chinchilla sand can be used. Like chinchillas, gerbils like to keep clean using a dust bath. When you are buying a gerbilarium, do bear this in mind – you still want to give them enough space to move around. In their natural habitat, tunnels will be common. Tubes, such as toilet rolls, will be great for them to run through. They will also chew them. Gerbils can also like fruit tree branches to claim on, and higher points to act as a lookout.

Where should I put a gerbil cage?

Their tank or cage should be in a place which isn’t too hot and isn’t too draughty. So, don’t put it near a radiator or heat source, nor a window or door. Also, avoid direct sunlight. Gerbils will like a quiet spot as well. So, avoid a loud room such as one with a television. You should also be careful when vacuuming around them or making any loud noise. Gerbils communicate using ultrasonic frequencies, so noises can interfere with this. Also bear in mind that gerbils can be most active during the evening, so housing them in a bedroom may not be ideal for your good night’s sleep.

When should I clean a gerbil cage?

A gerbilarium should be cleaned every two to three weeks. This is less often than other small animals, with reason. Gerbils originate in dry, desert-like grasslands, so they don’t produce much urine or waste. So while you should spot clean if needed, thorough cleans are not necessary for a week or two, and smells shouldn’t build up. Their burrowing material will only need fully replaced every few months, and during this time, you can clean the tank walls with a gerbil-friendly disinfectant. Of course, do deep clean more often if you need to. Having quite a few gerbils will mean more cleaning is probably needed.

Read more

If you’re reading this because you are considering adopting a gerbil, please read our gerbil care guide beforehand.

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Common Causes of Hamster Shaking

1. Cold Temperature — The Most Common Cause

Hamsters are highly sensitive to cold. If the room temperature drops below 15°C, your hamster will shiver to generate body heat — just like humans do. In extreme cold (below 10°C), hamsters can enter torpor — a hibernation-like state where they become very still with slow breathing. When they warm up from torpor, vigorous shaking is completely normal as their body temperature rises.

The fix: Keep the room between 18-24°C (65-75°F). Move the cage away from windows, draughts, and exterior walls. Add extra bedding (25cm+) so your hamster can burrow for warmth. Never use heat lamps or hot water bottles directly — these can overheat or burn.

2. Fear and Stress

As prey animals, hamsters are naturally nervous. They may shake or tremble when they perceive a threat, which can include:

• Loud noises (TV, music, shouting, hoovering)
• Sudden movements near the cage
• Being handled before they’re comfortable with you
• The presence of other pets (cats and dogs)
• A cage mate showing aggression (especially Syrian hamsters, who must live alone)
• Insufficient hiding places

The fix: Place the cage in a quiet room away from high-traffic areas. Handle your hamster gently and let them approach you rather than grabbing them. Ensure the cage has at least one multi-chamber hide where they can retreat.

3. New Home Adjustment

Just brought your hamster home? Shaking during the first 1-2 weeks is very common. Everything is unfamiliar — new smells, new sounds, new cage. This is normal adjustment behaviour and should resolve on its own as your hamster explores and builds confidence.

The fix: Don’t handle your hamster for the first 3-5 days. Speak softly near the cage so they learn your voice. Offer treats through the cage bars to build positive association.

4. Excitement or Anticipation

Some hamsters tremble slightly when excited — particularly when they smell food, hear their owner approaching, or are about to be let out for playtime. This is accompanied by active sniffing, alert ears, and approaching the cage door. This is completely normal and nothing to worry about.

5. Respiratory Infection — When to Worry

If shaking is accompanied by sneezing, wheezing, laboured breathing, nasal discharge, or watery eyes, your hamster likely has a respiratory infection. This is one of the most common illnesses in hamsters and is often caused by dusty bedding, cold draughts, or bacterial infection.

The fix: See an exotic vet as soon as possible. Respiratory infections can deteriorate quickly in hamsters and may require antibiotics. While waiting for the appointment, increase room temperature, switch to dust-free bedding (paper-based, not sawdust), and keep the environment calm.

6. Neurological Problems — Urgent

If your hamster is shaking combined with any of these signs, seek immediate veterinary attention:

• Stargazing — Staring upward and falling backwards repeatedly
• Circling — Walking in circles, unable to move in a straight line
• Head tilt — Holding the head permanently to one side
• Seizures — Uncontrolled jerking, stiffness, or collapse
• Loss of coordination — Stumbling, falling off platforms

These symptoms can indicate stroke, inner ear infection, brain tumour, or vitamin deficiency. Hamsters treated early for ear infections often make a full recovery, so prompt vet attention matters.

7. Old Age

Hamsters typically live 2-3 years. As they approach the end of their lifespan, mild trembling can occur due to muscle weakness, joint stiffness, and declining nervous system function. If an elderly hamster (18+ months) shakes mildly but is otherwise eating, drinking, and behaving normally, this may simply be age-related. Consult your vet to rule out treatable conditions.

When Should I Take My Hamster to the Vet?

See a vet immediately if: Shaking lasts more than 30 minutes without obvious cause, is accompanied by other symptoms (not eating, lethargy, discharge, difficulty breathing), or your hamster is unresponsive. Hamsters are experts at hiding illness, so visible shaking combined with behavioural changes usually means something significant is happening.

Finding an exotic vet in the UK: Not all vets treat hamsters. Search the RCVS (Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons) “Find a Vet” directory and filter for exotic or small animal specialists. Budget £30-60 for a standard hamster consultation, or £80-200+ for emergency out-of-hours visits.

FAQs

Is it normal for hamsters to shake when you hold them?

Yes, especially if your hamster is new or not yet comfortable with handling. Start with short handling sessions (2-3 minutes) and increase gradually. Let your hamster walk onto your hand rather than picking them up from above (which mimics a predator). Offering a treat during handling helps build trust. Most hamsters become comfortable within 2-4 weeks of consistent, gentle handling.

Why is my hamster shaking and not moving?

A hamster that is shaking and still or unresponsive may be in torpor (if the room is cold), extreme fear (freezing response), or experiencing a medical emergency. Check the room temperature first — if it’s below 15°C, warm the room gradually and hold your hamster gently against your body for warmth. If temperature isn’t the issue, contact an exotic vet immediately.

Can hamsters shake from being too hot?

Yes. Heatstroke in hamsters causes trembling, panting, drooling, and lethargy. If the room temperature exceeds 26°C, move the cage to a cooler area, provide a ceramic tile or granite slab for them to lie on, and ensure fresh water is available. Severe heatstroke requires emergency vet treatment.

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Will my hamster hibernate?

• shiver
• become lethargic
• sleep for long periods
• stop eating and drinking
• feel cold to touch, especially their feet and nose

1. Are they moving at all? Look for subtle movements, like slight twitching. Hamsters will go into a deep sleep before hibernating
2. Is their body warm? Even a hibernating hamster will feel slightly warm. However, a hamster that has died will feel completely cold to touch
3. Are they breathing? You may be able to see breathing movements from their chest or stomach area. You may also hear slight breathing noises, or even feel their breath if you hold them close to you

What to do if your hamster is hibernating

How to keep your hamster warm in winter

Keep them clear of draughts

Use extra bedding

Encourage activity

Related Reading

• Why Is My Hamster Shaking?
• How Much Do Hamsters Cost?

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If you’re ever in doubt, it’s a good idea to think about whether the food is in the guinea pig‘s natural habitat and is it something they’d be able to just find. For example, guinea pigs are more likely to eat leafy greens and grass rather than buried bulb vegetables, seeds and dairy.

We also have an in-depth guinea pig care guide in case you’re unsure about any other aspects of caring for your domestic cavy.

The foods your guinea pig should avoid

Since we understand that food in their natural environment is not always clear cut, below are the foods to definitely avoid.

1. Dairy

Guinea pigs are herbivores, so basically eat a vegan diet. Their teeth or digestive enzymes cannot break down these foods, and this can lead to severe digestive issues. A definite no, with no exceptions.

2. Cereal, Seeds, Oats

It’s advised not to give guinea pigs cereal because they often contain sugar. Even if they are marketed as low in sugar, seeds and grains are generally not good for guinea pigs simply because it leads to weight gain and dental difficulties. There’s also a risk that piggies can choke on larger seeds.

While oats are healthy for humans, they’re not too great for our little friends since they contain a lot of phosphorus that can damage their urinary systems. Oats are also full of carbohydrates which isn’t ideal for little piggies.

Another thing to avoid is the seeds and stones of fruits such as apples, peaches and cherries. Many contain cyanide, which can cause heart and nervous system failure.

3. Nightshades

We imagine you’ve already heard of the infamous nightshade family. The difference between nightshades and regular vegetables is that nightshades have levels of solanine in them, which is poisonous to guinea pigs and can cause fits, seizures and heart failure – pretty serious stuff, we know.

Not all nightshades are bad for guinea pigs, but those which definitely are include:

• Potatoes
• Aubergine
• Goji berries
• Blueberries

Tomatoes are a nightshade, but their skins are safe in small doses and a great source of vitamin C. It is the stems and leaves you need to avoid.

The same applies to peppers. They’re safe, but remove the seeds due to bitterness and choking hazards.

4. Avocados

Various other vegetables are harmful to guinea pigs too, including avocados, which are not ideal because of the fat content alone.

Additionally, they also contain persin, which is harmful to a lot of pets and can lead to vomiting, diarrhoea and shortness of breath. Something for pretty much all pets to avoid, so when you’re mashing it for your toast, ensure they can’t access it.

5. Bulb Allium Vegetables

Bulb allium vegetables, including onions, leeks, chives and garlic, are also incredibly toxic to guinea pigs since it’s difficult for them to digest. They also contain thiosulfate, which can cause haemolytic anaemia, damaging red blood cells and negatively affect their breathing.

Most guinea pigs are instinctively wary of these foods, so won’t go near them. But it isn’t worth taking a risk. Again though, all pets should be avoiding these, so also think about whether they are ingredients in any other foods.

6. Iceberg Lettuce

Surprising we know, but iceberg lettuce isn’t all that great for guinea pigs. While it is technically safe for them to eat, since it’s high in water it can cause bloating and diarrhoea, which may lead to dehydration. It is also very high in calcium and too much of this is bad for piggies since it can lead to kidney stones.

Iceberg is also low in vitamin C, which is a vital component in a healthy guinea pig diet, so it is wasted calories on them.

You can still feed your guinea pig small amounts of lettuce, but romaine lettuce is better as a treat because it has less calcium and more vitamin C, making it a much healthier option.

7. Beans

The majority of beans are incredibly gassy and so can cause discomfort for your piggies. If you’re looking to switch up your piggies diet, consider green beans as a treat now and again.

Green beans contain calcium, which isn’t good for piggies in large amounts, but they are rich in vitamin C, so giving green beans as an occasional treat will be fine.

8. Rhubarb

Rhubarb has many toxins in it; it’s too high in calcium, contains phosphorus, and is high in oxalic acid, which reduces mineral absorption and can lead to kidney stones. For this reason, it’s really not a good idea to feed your guinea pig rhubarb.

So – what can my guinea pig eat?

There are foods made especially for guinea pigs kept as pets.

A key element of their diet is good quality hay, such as Timothy hay. A vital part of their diet, hay contains fibre for good digestion. For this reason, it should be available at all times.

Did you know? A guinea pig’s teeth also grow continuously, so they need to chew on hay to grind them down

Commercial guinea pig food is specially made to include all of the nutrients and goodness your piggy requires. The food should be in pellet form, and approved by vets, from a trusted manufacturer.

Vegetables should be limited to one cup per day. Introduce new foods one by one. Ideally, look for great quality organic greens such as:

• Romaine lettuce
• Carrots and tops
• Peas
• Broccoli spears
• Cucumber
• Spinach
• Kale
• Tomatoes (without green parts or stems)
• Green and red peppers

Small, bite-sized pieces of fruit can also be given daily. Never give them much, as they are high in sugar. But they make a great treat. Safe fruits include:

• Oranges
• Apples
• Pears
• Strawberries
• Blueberries
• Kiwi

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most important thing to know about 8 Foods That Guinea Pigs Shouldn’t Eat?

Since chewing is pretty much a guinea pig’s favourite past-time, these little guys would be able to eat their way through anything. And while there’s a lot on the menu that they can eat, there are a few dishes that should be completely avoided. If you’re ever in doubt, it’s a good idea to think a…

The foods your guinea pig should avoid?

Since chewing is pretty much a guinea pig’s favourite past-time, these little guys would be able to eat their way through anything. And while there’s a lot on the menu that they can eat, there are a few dishes that should be completely avoided. If you’re ever in doubt, it’s a good idea to think about whether the food is in the guinea pig’s natural habitat and is it something they’d be able to j…

So – what can my guinea pig eat?

Since chewing is pretty much a guinea pig’s favourite past-time, these little guys would be able to eat their way through anything. And while there’s a lot on the menu that they can eat, there are a few dishes that should be completely avoided. If you’re ever in doubt, it’s a good idea to think about whether the food is in the guinea pig’s natural habitat and is it something they’d be able to j…

The post 8 Foods That Guinea Pigs Shouldn’t Eat appeared first on Petz.

1. You can make it as big as you like
2. You can design it around your cavy’s habits

From cupboards being turned into three-story guinea pig houses to entire areas of the room cornered off with a cute white picket fence, we’ve seen guinea pig housing of all kinds. Some people like to create hybrids using traditionally bought hutches and expanding on them, while others like to start from scratch, reusing whatever furniture they have lying about. Whatever you choose to do, the main thing that matters is that the space is large enough and safe enough. If you’re unsure of how big your guinea pig cage should be, check out our guide to make sure you’re meeting the requirements. It’s also crucial that you fill the space with toys and accessories, so your guinea pig to ensure they’re getting enough enrichment. So with all that in mind, let’s get started with how you can create your very own DIY guinea pig cage.

How to make a guinea pig cage

Making a wooden guinea pig cage:

Wooden cages are great because they’re natural, chew friendly and can look very pretty. They are ideal for anyone willing to give their guinea pigs an entire room as home, but who needs to close off an area for sleeping.

How to make a C&C cage for guinea pigs:

C&C cage stands for Cubes and Coroplast cage. The cubes are the grids used to create the structure of the cage, while coroplast is the plastic base used in the cage. You can make them as large and tall as needed, so they are a favourite for most guinea pig owners, especially if you want to make it two storeys.

Final Note

It’s also nice to add extras to the room to make the place feel a little bit more like home. Many use fairy lights and photos, as a human would have! However, it’s important to make sure these aren’t in a place where your piggies can chew them. We hope we’ve provided plenty of tips and inspiration and now all that’s left is to start making your wonderful little cavy cove!

Related Reading

• How To Clean A Guinea Pig Cage

The post How To Make A Guinea Pig Cage appeared first on Petz.

• For 2 guinea pigs: 10.5 sq ft/27 x 56 inches
• 3 guinea pigs: 13 sq ft/27 x 71 inches
• 4 guinea pigs: 16 sq ft/27 x 84 inches

If you keep only males, you should always go up one size as they need more space to limit the likelihood of fighting.

Can a guinea pig cage be too big?

The answer, in short, is no! We understand the practicalities of space; however, since guinea pigs are very active and do like to explore, you really can’t go wrong with a large guinea pig cage. Guinea pigs also love to stay on one level, and while an upstairs can be easily added if you are building your own DIY C&C cage, the lower level is the most vital to get right. Yes – it is easy to make your own guinea pig cage and have as much space as your room physically allows! If you do have a second level, it must have a safe and secure ramp with sides.

What are the benefits of a bigger guinea pig cage?

1. Mental stimulation

Guinea pigs are intelligent animals and need an enclosure that will pique their interest and keep them busy. This means space for them to explore and space for enriching activities, such as stairs, huts, toys, see-saws, hide-outs, etc. If your space is quite small, you’re not going to be able to provide accessories that offer so much stimulation for your guinea pigs.

2. Reflects their natural habitat

In the wild, guinea pigs have endless amounts of space with natural tunnels and hideouts, so being cramped out in one small pen isn’t going to allow them to live the life they were designed for.

3. Less fighting

While guinea pigs are social animals, every family fights when they feel overcrowded. As mentioned above, males are particularly prone to getting a bit aggravated. It’s important that your guinea pigs have enough space for quiet time away from the other guinea pigs. With male guinea pigs, there may be a dispute of dominance, so ensuring that there is enough space to stay out of each other’s way will help prevent bickering or fights.

4. Exercise

Ensuring that guinea pigs have plenty of space to exercise will prevent health problems down the line. It’s essential in preventing them from becoming overweight, developing heart disease or bumblefoot. Exercise is also good for their mental well-being too.

Guinea pig cage sizes explained

The RSPCA states that:

“The minimum cage size for two guinea pigs should be 120 x 60cm x 45cm”

However, they stress that “For the sake of your guinea pig’s health and happiness, consider providing as large a cage for them as possible”, and this really is the bare minimum. If you can go larger, you will definitely be giving your guinea pig a better quality of life. A larger cage is actually easier to clean, too! A clean cage is better for their health, so is essential. Remember, you also need to provide enough space for the extras:

• Bowl for food
• Water bottle/dispenser
• Bedding
• Hiding spots
• Cleaning materials

Do guinea pigs need an additional run?

As well as a housing cage, it’s really important to have a run for your guinea pigs too. Having a run means that in the summer months, your guinea pig can enjoy the outdoor area while being secure, and it also means that when you need to clean out the housing cage, your guinea pig will have somewhere to run and play as well.

It may seem a little daunting trying to find the perfect size and place for your guinea pig, but to see your guinea pig full of joy – skipping and popcorning – makes it all worth it. Happy guinea pig; happy owner!

The post How Big Should A Guinea Pig Cage Be? appeared first on Petz.

How often should I clean my guinea pig cage?

The entire cage should be completely deep-cleaned once a week. To do this, your guinea pig will have to go somewhere safe and they will need clean and dry bedding. Spot cleaning needs to be done every day to avoid harmful bacteria spreading and a strong smell developing. It will also prevent them from spreading poo around the rest of the pen and will prevent the cage from getting damp in certain spots.

What does cleaning a guinea pig cage involve?

If you are spot cleaning their cage, you need to remove their soiled bedding and litter with a scoop. Check where they relax, in corners and in hidden areas in case you miss anything. You will also need to remove any uneaten food, check for food that has been moved and change their water. During a deep clean, you will need to:

1. Remove all bedding and litter, even if it looks clean, and properly dispose of it
2. Wash all accessories and hideouts in their cage
3. Wash any fabric items, such as toys
4. Use a pet-safe disinfectant to wipe down all areas, including the floor and walls
5. Replace the litter and bedding
6. Ensure all accessories are dry before replacing
7. Remove any bowls and water bottles, deep cleaning these too – don’t forget drinking spouts and inside bottles

What do I need to clean my guinea pig cage?

1. Somewhere safe where you can put your piggies while you clean
2. Fresh bedding
3. Fresh pee pads or litter
4. Cleaning products that are going to be safe to use around your guinea pigs
5. Clean cloths to wipe everything down with as well as a clean, old towel to dry it all afterwards

What products should I use to clean a guinea pig cage?

It sounds obvious, but it needs to be clarified that you should use guinea pig-safe cleaning products. Guinea pigs are not like cats and dogs, and many products will be too harsh and potentially toxic to them. You can buy specialised cleaning products, designed for small animals, that can be used on their bowls and toys. Places like Pets At Home, Zooplus, Viovet, or Amazon will provide these products; just always make sure they say it’s okay to use on food-related toys and accessories before buying. Watered down distilled white vinegar is also used by many, although be sure to remove any residue to prevent a strong smell. Many people ask if Clorox wipes are okay to clean the coroplast at the bottom of the cage, and the consensus is that they are; however, we wouldn’t recommend using it on anything else. It’s important to stress that products, including Lysol, are not safe to use, nor are any regular household products. Always thoroughly rinse everything down with cold water when clean. This removes residue and that cleaning smell.

How to make cleaning less stressful for guinea pigs

The whole cleaning process can be a little stressful for guinea pigs, which is understandable. They need to be moved to somewhere like a run or spare cage, which can be upsetting. You should use this place regularly. So, when deep cleaning, always use the same cage. They will only be in there for around one or two hours, so you may wish to keep some toys or used bedding aside for this cage until they are back in their permanent home. Then, of course, clean this spare home too. When you’re cleaning their cage, you need to make sure the temporary home is secure. Ideally, it’s better to place them in a playpen where they have space to run about, and you can put a few of their favourite things in to occupy them. However, if this isn’t an option, a large cardboard box will work or any kind of secure pet carrier – just make sure there is enough space and that they can still see you in order to ease any anxiety.

And that’s how you clean your guinea pigs’ cage. A clean home; a happy guinea pig! So all that’s left is to grab your rubber gloves and scrub away!

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Normal Guinea Pig Behaviour

While there may be some things that your guinea pig does that look strange, a lot of it is actually perfectly normal.

1. Sleeping with their eyes open

Guinea pigs are prey animals, so they have to be alert and ready to move at a moment’s notice. This often means that they sleep lightly, so lightly in fact that their eyes stay open. It’s pretty normal and even though it looks a bit weird, it’s nothing to worry about.

2. Eating their poo

Despite it being rather disgusting, guinea pigs do eat their own poo, and it’s pretty common. It’s relatively healthy for them to do this since their faeces is still full of nutrients, and it’s nutrients that they haven’t managed to digest the first time around. But this isn’t to say you should allow their pen to become dirty and full of faeces – spot clean their cage every day.

3. Dragging their behind on the floor

Your guinea pig is doing this to mark their territory. This might happen if you’re placing them in a new cage, there is a new guinea pig, or you’ve just cleaned the cage. Don’t worry; this is perfectly normal, it just looks odd. It is a behaviour seen with other animals, too.

5. Jumping in the air (popcorning)

Generally, this is a behaviour that you want to see happening since it usually means they’re happy and excited. If they’re doing it all the time, however, they have a lot of excess energy so it might be a good idea to think about some additional toys and activities that they’ll enjoy.

6. Strange sounds

From purring and squeaking to wheeking and rumbling… guinea pigs make the strangest noises, and they’re often just expressing natural feelings that are a part of everyday guinea pig life such as excitement, annoyance and even seduction.

7. Chasing each other

In any pack of animals, there will always be a fight for dominance. More often than not, this is settled easily. Guinea pigs understand there is a hierarchy, and many are happy to fit within it. If chasing is occurring, this is a sign of dominance and happens in both males and females. It’s usually nothing to worry about, and unless there is real harm taking place (bullying, depriving others of food, wounds from biting), then it’s fine. If it’s occurring between a male and female, then it’s also a good idea to check that they’re definitely neutered – just to be on the safe side.

8. Peeing on other guinea pigs when annoyed

Like all families, guinea pigs annoy one another. But as a sign that they want the other guinea pig to back off, they can spray pee on one another. Yeah, it’s pretty gross but also pretty standard; it’s just their way of letting each other know they’re not in the mood.

9. Nipping

This one can get a little grey because excessive nipping can turn into bullying, and that’s not okay. However, the occasional nip is okay if one guinea pig needs to tell their fellow piggy to leave their food alone. Just watch out for how often it’s happening and whether it’s always the same guinea pig doing it.

10. Head raising with an open mouth

Once again, a sign of dominance, surprising, right? You wouldn’t think guinea pigs would be so narky given how cute they are, but yes, a lot of their behaviour is to display dominance in group situations. This is another case of it being perfectly fine and normal so long as it’s not occurring all the time.

Abnormal Guinea Pig Behaviour

1. Chewing the bars

Guinea pigs can chew everything in sight, but if they’re constantly chewing the bars of their cage, this could be a sign of frustration and boredom. Is their environment providing enough stimulation for them? They should:

• always have a fellow guinea pig with them
• have enough room, as you’ve followed the guidance on guinea pig cage sizing
• have accessories and toys for mental stimulation

2. Lack of movement

If your guinea pig is lethargic and reluctant to move or is often crouched in a hunched position, then this is a sign that something is wrong. Guinea pigs are usually social and active, so if they’re not exploring the area a lot, this could be a sign of illness, pain, depression or anxiety.

3. Change in eating, drinking and toilet habits

If you have noticed that your guinea pig is eating less, drinking less or drinking much more, then this is a sign something is up. It could be illness-related, depression-related, or another guinea pig could be bullying them. If you’ve noticed a change in their diet, then it’s essential to take them to see a vet. The same goes for their toilet habits, such as diarrhoea or a complete lack of urination and poo. Weigh your guinea pigs weekly, so a change in weight is easy to spot.

4. Repeated circling of their enclosure or overgrooming

These are signs of stress which could be down to illness, frustration, boredom, loneliness, or bullying from another guinea pig. It’s important to monitor these behaviours along with other warning signs mentioned. If it continues, you should look at changing something in their environment or monitoring the interactions between your piggies. It’s best to speak to your vet if it still carries on.

5. Freezing or fidgeting when you’re handling them

If a guinea pig feels safe and relaxed around you, they’ll usually lie down, stretch out and settle calmly. If they’re stiff or constantly trying to get away, as you’ve guessed it, they’re scared and uncomfortable. Try being calm, gentle and quiet around your pig, and let them get used to being around you before you pick them up.

6. Frequent fighting

The occasional push is okay; after all, there will always be a dominant guinea pig. However, when this turns to biting and rolling around, then it’s harmful and abnormal group behaviour. If it’s the same two guinea pigs, then you may need to split them up. Excessive biting is also a sign that a guinea pig may be in pain, especially if they’re biting you too.

7. Shrieking  and excessive teeth chattering

These are the noises that definitely aren’t normal. Excessive shrieking and teeth chattering are signs of a very agitated guinea pig. Shrieking is a high pitched noise that usually means your guinea pig is upset or distressed about something. Excessive teeth chattering is a sign of irritation and aggression so you may want to consider if you’re handling your guinea pig in a stressful way or if their environment is causing anxiety. Do they have enough space away from other guinea pigs? Is there enough to stimulate them in the cage?

8. Spending a lot of time hiding

It’s natural for guinea pigs to enjoy hiding; it’s instinct to get away from predators. But like with all behaviours, moderation is key. If your guinea pig pretty much refuses to come out from hiding, then you can incur that they’re in pain, or they feel threatened by their environment. This requires looking at ways to make your guinea pig feel safer and calmer as well as looking at the way they interact with other guinea pigs, and again, it may also be worth paying a visit to the vets.

Final Note

If you want to know more about your guinea pig then check out our guinea pig care guide. And as always, if you’re concerned about any strange behaviour that your guinea pig is exhibiting then it’s always wise to talk to your vet about it. They will be able to give you a better understanding of how to resolve the problem in a specialised and in a way that’s tailored to your little buddy.

Related Reading

• How to Trim Your Guinea Pig’s Nails

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most important thing to know about Guinea Pig Behaviour: What You Need To Know?

Since we can’t speak our guinea pigs’ language, it’s not always easy to determine exactly what they’re feeling or why they’re behaving in a certain way. But that’s not to say that they don’t communicate and if you pay attention long enough, you’ll eventually master the art of unde…

What should I know about Normal Guinea Pig Behaviour?

Since we can’t speak our guinea pigs’ language, it’s not always easy to determine exactly what they’re feeling or why they’re behaving in a certain way. But that’s not to say that they don’t communicate and if you pay attention long enough, you’ll eventually master the art of understanding what your guinea pig’s behaviour means and how your guinea pig is feeling. To understand…

The post Guinea Pig Behaviour: What You Need To Know appeared first on Petz.

Safety first: Only use plain, untreated brown cardboard (no glossy print, glue, or stickers). Avoid anything with sharp edges, small removable parts, or toxic materials. Always supervise your guinea pig with new toys.

1. Toilet Roll Hay Dispenser

The classic DIY guinea pig toy. Stuff an empty toilet roll with Timothy hay and tuck the ends in loosely. Your guinea pig will push, pull, and gnaw at the roll to get the hay out. For extra challenge, cut small slits in the sides and poke hay strands through them. Replace daily as the cardboard gets soggy.

2. Cardboard Box Hideout

Cut one or two guinea pig-sized holes in the sides of a shoebox or small delivery box. Place it upside down in the cage with a handful of hay inside. Guinea pigs feel safest when they have a private hiding spot, and they’ll love nibbling the edges of the cardboard over time. Replace when it gets too chewed or damp.

3. Paper Bag Foraging Toy

Take a small brown paper bag (remove any handles), fill it with hay and scatter a few small treats (a slice of pepper, a sprig of parsley) inside. Scrunch the top loosely closed. Your guinea pig will rustle, push, and tear at the bag to find the hidden goodies. This mimics natural foraging behaviour and provides great mental stimulation.

4. Tunnel System

Connect several large cardboard tubes (paper towel rolls work, or ask at a carpet shop for the wider centre tubes) end to end with gaps between them. Guinea pigs love running through tunnels — it satisfies their prey-animal instinct to have covered pathways. Ensure all tube diameters are at least 12cm wide so no piggy gets stuck.

5. Herb Garden Platter

Arrange a selection of guinea pig-safe herbs on a plate or in a shallow dish — parsley, coriander, basil, dill, and mint are all safe and loved. This acts as both a foraging enrichment activity and a nutritious supplement to their hay diet. A great way to use up herbs that are going past their best in your fridge.

6. Veggie Kebab

Thread chunks of bell pepper, cucumber, and carrot onto a wooden skewer (use an apple wood stick or untreated wooden dowel) and wedge it vertically between the cage bars. Guinea pigs will stretch up and nibble pieces off the stick, encouraging natural standing behavior. Remove the stick once the veg is eaten to avoid splinters.

7. Cardboard Maze

Cut and fold large cardboard boxes into a mini maze with dead ends, corridors, and open areas. Place treats at the end of some corridors. This is best used during supervised floor time outside the cage. Change the layout regularly so your guinea pigs don’t memorise the route — the novelty is what provides the enrichment.

8. Hay Sock

Take an old, clean cotton sock and stuff it with hay. Cut 3–4 small holes in the sides. Your guinea pig will pull hay through the holes, toss the sock around, and generally have a great time rummaging. Use a sock without elastic or silicone grips, and replace it when it gets chewed through.

9. Digging Box

Fill a shallow plastic container (a cat litter tray works perfectly) with 2–3 inches of shredded recycled paper or clean topsoil. Scatter treats, herb sprigs, and hay on top and mix them in. Guinea pigs will dig, burrow, and forage through the substrate — this mimics their natural grassland behaviour and provides excellent enrichment.

10. Apple Wood Chew Bundle

Gather a small bundle of apple, willow, or hazel twigs (ensure they’re from untreated, unsprayed trees) and tie them together with a short piece of natural jute string. Guinea pigs need to chew to wear down their continuously growing teeth, and safe wood chews are far better than plastic alternatives. Wash and dry the twigs before offering them.

Safe Wood for Guinea Pigs

How Often Should I Rotate Toys?

Guinea pigs benefit most from variety and novelty. Rotate 2–3 toys in and out of the cage every few days. This prevents boredom and keeps each toy interesting. Cardboard toys should be replaced as soon as they get soggy or heavily chewed. Wood chews can last weeks.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are toilet rolls safe for guinea pigs?

Yes — plain brown cardboard toilet rolls are safe for guinea pigs to chew and play with. Avoid rolls with printed patterns, glossy coatings, or glue residue. The small amount of cardboard they may ingest while chewing is harmless and will pass through their digestive system.

Can guinea pigs play with cat toys?

Most cat toys are not suitable for guinea pigs. Cat toys often contain small bells, feathers, catnip, or elastic strings that could be swallowed or cause entanglement. Stick to guinea pig-specific or homemade toys made from safe, natural materials.

What household items can guinea pigs play with?

Safe household items include plain cardboard boxes, toilet and paper towel rolls, brown paper bags (handles removed), clean cotton socks, and ceramic dishes for hay or herbs. Always ensure items are clean, untreated, and free from sharp edges, ink, or adhesives.

The post How To Make Homemade Guinea Pig Toys: 10 Easy DIY Ideas appeared first on Petz.

How many guinea pigs should I have?

• One neutered male and one or more females
• Two females
• Neutered brothers (if they’ve been reared together)
• A father-son/mother-daughter pairing

Do Guinea pigs fight?

How can I introduce guinea pigs?

Can I have a rabbit and a guinea pig together?

The post Is It Okay To Have One Guinea Pig? appeared first on Petz.

Guinea pigs are actually very intelligent, too. When placed in mazes, guinea pigs have demonstrated that they’re able to recall pathways to food and hold onto these memories for months. And another study carried out suggests that guinea pigs are actually able to learn new lessons faster than other rodents.

So if guinea pigs are incredibly social and they’re actually rather clever, it makes sense that stimulation and engagement are vital for a happy and healthy guinea pig.

Knowing what toy your guinea pig will like to play with can be determined by how that toy fits every one of their needs. If you’re looking for new toys check out our round-up of the best Guinea Pig toys.

Guinea Pig Toy Needs

Need 1: Mental stimulation and socialising

Answer: Interacting and bonding games

Guinea pigs form bonds with their owners and become depressed if their owner isn’t present. Because they’re naturally social animals, guinea pigs need a lot of interaction to be happy, and this is something that people often don’t understand about them.

As a side note, it’s important to state that you should always have more than one guinea pig since they’re much happier in groups.

Returning to the interactive toys, you should try and find something you can do together. For example, using toys that allow you to hide food and treats within them so you can challenge your guinea pig to forage and search for their food while being there to praise them when they find the missing treat.

A ball that dispenses treats is also a good idea since your guinea pig will enjoy the attention they’ll be receiving from you as you roll it towards them, not to mention the reward they’ll receive when they manage to get the treat out of the ball.

Need 2: Exercise and adventure

Answer: Large cage and accessories

Guinea pigs are natural explorers and foragers, so they actually need quite a lot of space. Not only is it essential that you’ve provided ample space for them to run around, but it’s also good to have toys and accessories that make that space more engaging and adventurous.

• Tunnels – Not only do tunnels reflect their real habitat more, but it adds a greater sense of intrigue and will encourage them to explore the space more
• Toys – As well as joint play, they also need solo play. Homemade guinea pig toys are perfect, as you can hide treats inside
• Runs – All guinea pigs should also have a run outdoors, which is safe and gives them space to bask in natural light and fresh air

They must keep moving to keep healthy and happy.

Need 3: An outlet for excessive chewing

Answer: Chew toys and hay

It’s no exaggeration that guinea pigs will chew just about anything. Their teeth are evergrowing, so it’s an instinct for them to continue to gnaw and chew. Guinea pigs who are bored and don’t have any chew toys end up chewing the bars, which isn’t something we want.

So invest in some good chew toys. There are some great choices available in the form of houses, huts, mini vegetable patches, dinosaurs and large wooden carrots.

Or if you want to buy something more traditional, then try a chew ball – made from hay, dried grass or wood. These will also provide plenty of fun while your little piggie rolls it around.

Hay is also a must, so they can keep chewing on something safe when needed.

Need 4: Mental stimulation

Answer: Tricks and obstacle courses

We’ve already mentioned it many times, but try to help your guinea pig reach their full mental potential. A great way to encourage this is to try and teach your guinea pig new tricks or to try an obstacle course.

You can buy these from various places including Amazon or Etsy; otherwise, you can create your own by using cardboard boxes, toilet rolls (for tunnels), small plastic cups (to create a weave poll circuit) and two books and a pole to create a mini jump.

Naturally, treats will motivate your guinea pig to do the tricks, and of course, you will have to start small and build up the level of difficulty each time.

Need 5: New interactions

Answer: New toys

This isn’t to say you should be changing their environment all the time – because this would actually cause a lot of distress – however, your guinea pigs will benefit from having new toys or tunnels placed in their environment for something to pique their curiosity again.

This is why homemade toys are a great choice. Used loo rolls and paper bags can always come in handy…

Things to look out for

Material

It seems obvious, but you always have to check that the product specifies that it’s non-toxic or chew-safe. always remove anything which is being over chewed or is damaged.

Type of toy

If the toy is glued together, then check its pet-friendly glue or perhaps avoid it altogether.

Weaved balls also begin to unravel as your guinea pig chews away at them so it’s important to check that they don’t become something that your guinea pig can get tangled up in.

Space

While guinea pigs love dark and small hideouts, it’s also essential to check how accessible they really for your guinea pig. If your guinea pig looks like they’re struggling to get through space, you should take away that accessory. It’s not worth the risk of them getting stuck.

The post What Toys Do Guinea Pigs Like To Play With? appeared first on Petz.

Rabbit and Guinea Pig Reproduction

Guinea Pig Reproductive Diseases

Ovarian cysts

Dystocia

Rabbit Reproductive Diseases

Uterine cancer

Pseudopregnancy

Rabbit Syphilis

Take Home Message

Further Reading

You May Also Like

• Tackling Dog Obesity
• Caring for Recovering Pets
• Caring for Pets with Liver Disease
• Caring for Pets with Kidney Disease

The post Reproductive Problems In Rabbits And Guinea Pigs appeared first on Petz.

Although sensitive creatures, their adorable quirks have always been beloved by young children, and so many families choose to purchase one as a first pet for their child and an introduction to animals at home.

However, looking after one is far from child’s play, and there is quite a lot to learn before you purchase a new wee little squeaker!

Sadly, a lot of misinformation still exists about the care of guinea pigs, and so many new piggy owners are given the wrong advice when it comes looking after a fluffy friend.

So to help you avoid running into any issues, we’ve put together this in-depth, trustworthy guide, to clue you up on everything you need to know on guinea pig caregiving!

FACTFILE

• Lifespan: 4 to 8 years
• Average Height: 20 – 50 cm
• Average Weight: 850 – 1000 g
• Popular Breeds: Skinny (Hairless), Abyssinian, Teddy, Texel, America, Merino (Standard breed)
• Diet: Fresh Hay, Leafy Vegetables, Fruits, Guinea Pig Pellets
• Origin: South America

IMPORTANT THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Before you decide you really want a guinea pig, you need to consider these important caregiving factors:

• Guinea Pigs are social animals – They need to be paired up with one other piggy at least, as in the wild they can live with up to 10 others!
• Guinea Pigs can live up to 8 years (or more!) – Make sure you are prepared for a long commitment to your pet.
• Guinea Pigs need space – Your little pigs will need a lot of room, so make sure you have sufficient space in your house, garden or yard for keeping a cage or hutch with added runs.
• Guinea Pigs aren’t always quiet! – Although appearing quiet and unassuming, guinea pig squeals can occasionally stir up one heck of a racket! So if your neighbours are the unforgiving, complaining type, guinea pigs may not be the best idea.
• Guinea Pigs are sensitive – When moving into a new home, little pigs may be nervous or sensitive at the prospect of being handled. Adult owners and especially children must take care when handling them to ensure they become tamed quickly.
• They need lots of Vitamin C – Guinea Pigs are unable to manufacture their own Vitamin C and so need to be fed a diet rich in it as well as be given regular Vitamin C supplements.
• Your Guinea Pig may need neutering – If you’re planning on keeping male and female pigs in the same pen, you’ll need to have your male neutered to prevent unwanted babies. But beware, it can take up to four weeks for them to become sterile after the operation!
• They aren’t rabbits – Even though they both live in hutches, it is not a smart idea to house guinea pigs and rabbits together! Rabbits do not warm to guinea pigs and may well attack them or injure them if kept in the same enclosure.

WHERE TO BUY A GUINEA PIG

Once you’re sure guinea pigs really are the pet for you, your next question is probably where to buy one from. Thankfully, guinea pigs are a widely available animal and can be bought from many pet shops, breeders and rescue shelters.

We would recommend contacting local animal shelters first, as there’s no question that the best thing you could do is rehome some unwanted little guinea pigs!

If you’re looking for a specific rarer breed, your best bet is to go with a breeder who will likely have a lot of knowledge about the various breeds of guinea pigs and will hopefully have trained, tamed and treated them kindly if they are a responsible breeder.

However, you need to make sure that whoever you buy your guinea pigs from is reputable, and that they’ve housed the animal correctly before they come home with you.

This is because guinea pigs living in poor conditions could easily be carrying illness or infection, which would cause you and your family needless distress or grief should you purchase a suffering animal.

More commonly, they also may not have been separated properly by sex, which could mean a lot of breeding has occured, and you may be purchasing an already pregnant animal.

In regards to breeders and shelters, it’s unlikely they would raise or keep guinea pigs in conditions which would be detrimental to their health, but for certain pet shops who are housing tons of animals at one time – the same level of care potentially might not be given.

Therefore, when buying any guinea pig you should always ensure that you come and view their current premises first hand to check they are being given proper care, and you should avoid ever buying one blind over the internet!

When choosing your pigs, be sure to check the potential pets have been separated correctly by gender and that the seller actually knows how to correctly determine the sex of a pig.

Then observe whether they are being given clean water and food and that their habitats don’t appear dirty.

You obviously also want to be suspicious of any groups of guinea’s who look unwell or are too young to be in the care of a pet owner.

CHOOSING YOUR GUINEA PIG

Health

Before choosing your little pipsqueaks, you first need to make sure they are in good health and ready to be given a new home.

Healthy guinea pigs should have been bred and raised in a clean environment that has plenty of space, with good access to food and water. So if you’re witnessing anything other than that upon purchase from a seller, your alarm bells should already be ringing!

If you can, make sure you examine guinea pigs personally before making any firm decisions.

First, check the pig’s skin for any ominous lumps and bumps and make sure their coat is fluffy, smooth and free of bare patches. Then assess whether there are any weight issues, such as them being too fat or too skinny, and be sure to also observe their rear end for any signs of soiling or diarrhoea.

Although slightly more difficult to assess, you should also observe whether they’re teeth are overgrown and that it’s breathing is quiet and easy.

All in all, you want to pick piggies that are displaying an active attitude around the enclosure, moving around without stiffness or lameness. If possible, also try and single out squeakers who don’t seem anxious or upset by the approach or touch of humans.

However, even if your chosen guinea pigs appear fine, if they are sharing a cage with several others that appear to be in a sickly condition, it’s best not to take the gamble. Guinea Pig diseases are very contagious, and so it’s likely choosing a furball from the same hutch will only lead to a heartbreakingly similar fate.

Age

One of the main risks with buying guinea pigs is making sure you avoid purchasing one’s that are too young, which you won’t be able to look after properly.

Firstly, all female guinea pigs need to remain with their mothers until they are at least 4 weeks old. Opposingly males need to be separated from 3 weeks old as they become fertile and may get their siblings (and even their own mother!) pregnant from this age onwards. 

To be safe try and choose piglets that are at least 6 weeks old. This way, you will definitely know they are old enough to be separated from their mother, and that they have also had a few weeks to adapt and fend for themselves (sort of!).

Sex

We accept that some people want certain sexes of pig when looking for a pet and that many of you will also be looking to avoid the possibility of mating when pairing up piggies.

Thankfully, determining their sex is something you can probably work out yourself without the assessment of an expert, which comes in handy if you feel the seller perhaps isn’t quite as clued up as they should be!

Guinea Pigs don’t enjoy being picked up or being placed on their backs for long periods of time, so try and do your examination as quickly as possible, and consider rewarding and easing your pig’s cooperation with treats.

From a low height, preferably over a covered floor or table, hold your pig gently but firmly by the shoulders and chest, and cradle them onto their backs so their stomach and genital area are facing you.

From here, you’re looking to observe something called the anogenital distance (the distance between a guinea pig’s genitals and their anus).

The distance is much shorter in females and can be difficult to distinguish, whereas a male’s genital openings will be a few inches away from the anus.

To identify the genitals, examine the area above the anus. Females often have a smooth swelling over their genital area which should form a ‘Y’ shape. Males, on the other hand, should have a bulge in this area, due to its penis and testicles. If you’re not quite sure what you’re looking at, gently press the area above the genitals and you should see a penis protrude.

If you’ve already bought your pigs and are still not sure, or just aren’t comfortable perusing around such areas, have a specialised vet confirm the sex of your guinea pig for you!

Handling

Guinea pigs can form wonderful bonds with their owners, however, they can react nervously towards handling and definitely tolerate being picked up more than they actively enjoy it.

If you are going to pick up a guinea pig, do so with caution and care, as they have very delicate spines which can be damaged if not properly handled.

They should be kept upright, with their feet facing the floor and not be held too high in case they get skittish and try to jump out of your hands. Therefore it’s best to kneel or sit down when interacting with your piggies.

To pick them up properly, place one hand under their chest and use your other hand to support and lift their back legs. Make sure to also hold them close to your body for a more secure grasp.

Due to the level of care and attention needed to do this, we advise not letting very young children even attempt to pick up a guinea pig for fear they could drop them or hold them improperly.

It’s safer just to let them stroke their pet in a secure area, and feed them treats.

Breeds

In terms of personality or behaviour, there is not really much difference between the various guinea pig breeds.

So when choosing what breed you want, we would heartily suggest just opting a piggy that you think is the cutest looking!

However, be prepared to do more maintenance for pigs with long flowing hair, which can become quickly matted and tangled without regular brushing.

Hairless breeds like Baldwins and Skinny’s also tend not to fare well in sunlight due to the damage it can cause to their unprotected skin, often making them more suitable as an indoor pet!

ENVIRONMENT

Housing

Unfortunately, a hutch in the back garden stuffed full of guinea pigs just isn’t going to cut it when it comes to providing a piggy palace, and without sufficient space and room for stimulation, guinea pigs can develop plenty of behavioural and health problems.

Whether being kept outside or indoors, guinea pigs need an area which is quiet, ventilated, dry and draught-free. Crucially it needs to also be free from hazards such as bad weather conditions, poor temperatures and predators (which might include some of your other pets!)

Outdoor Housing

If outdoors, they need to be placed in a predator-proof hutch, preferably inside a weatherproof shed or structure that can protect it from prevailing winds and keep it out of direct sunlight. It should be raised slightly above ground level to prevent any accumulation of damp.

In the main, the hutch will provide them with a dark, enclosed area for sleeping or hiding in, while they will also need a run attached to the hutch, which will act as a kind of living enclosure to play and explore in.

Both the hutch and run should be large as possible, allowing your guinea pigs to have a space of their own away from their bonding partners should they so wish. As a rule of thumb, a hutch for two should be more than 1.2 m in length and 60 cm in width. The flooring outside should also be preferably grass or concrete to help keep pigs nails short.

Never keep your guinea pig hutch in a garage where vehicles are kept, as the fumes can be fatal!

Indoor Housing

One of the main reasons guinea pigs are kept outside is that they are very sensitive to loud noises, and so you should first ensure they are kept in an indoor environment that is away from loudspeaker systems or television sets.

They should also be kept away from sources of heat such as radiators and out of direct sunlight from sunny windows.

In terms of an enclosure, an indoor guinea pig will still need a living space such as a cage, vivarium or hutch that can provide them with a dark, enclosed spot for sleeping. However, this does not necessarily need a protective roof, as there is no weather or predators to watch out for (providing you’re not letting a dog or cat come and antagonise them!).

They also still need an attached indoor run area to exercise and play in, with solid flooring to help keep their nails short.

Entertainment & Exercise

Guinea Pigs don’t really respond to toys in the same way that a hamster or other rodent might, however, they have been known to enjoy hide-aways, tunnels and tubes.

Creating little obstacle courses in their runs can help keep them entertained and cardboard boxes can provide safe havens to hide in if they feel anxious.

It’s important to at a minimum have a large run for them to play and explore, as guinea pigs are active for 20 hours a day! This means they need plenty of stimulation to prevent boredom.

Bedding Materials

Keeping your guinea pigs comfortable and warm is paramount to their health and happiness and so you need to provide them with plenty of bedding within their sleeping areas.

It’s key that this bedding is absorbent so that it efficiently soaks up urine, and also that it is edible, as should your piggies accidentally chew or nibble on some, we don’t want it to be dangerous!

Popular bedding includes paper products, or more commonly used chipped, shredded, ground or pelleted materials. Try and avoid shredded or chipped softwood materials like pine as the natural chemicals within these types of wood can make guinea pigs ill.

Also never use fluffy bedding, as it can get caught on a pet’s limbs and won’t dissolve properly when eaten, causing digestive issues.

To correctly deck out your piggy shelter, line the bottom of the floor with old newspaper, before applying your chosen bedding. Then cover with lots of dust-free hay for extra warmth and a tasty snack to chew on!

In winter months, it’s crucial that even more bedding than usual is provided to keep guineas nice and toasty.

Temperature & Conditions

Just like any animal, guinea pigs don’t appreciate being very cold and the whole point of stuffing their hutch full of bedding and straw is to regulate the temperature as well as keep them soft and snug.

When temperatures outside drop to below 15°C, you may not be able to sufficiently heat their hutch up with extra bedding alone. Instead, consider moving them into a car-free garage or inside a shed to keep warm.

Temperature is far easier to regulate when you have indoor guinea pigs, as you should know what your room temperature roughly is by consulting your heating system.

17–20°C is the room temperature to aim for, ensuring your enclosure is not placed near to any radiators or heat sources.

Keeping Companions

As guinea pigs are social animals, it’s advised you keep them in at least a pair to prevent them becoming bored or depressed.

But how are you meant to go about choosing more than one new pet?

Well, the recommended pairings are one neutered male with a female or two females.

This is because if males haven’t been brought up as brothers in a litter together, there is a risk of fighting, although if they are both neutered this will be less likely to happen.

Females also generally aren’t ever spayed because it is a much more complicated procedure and so that is why most experts would recommend neutering any male you plan to pair with a female.

If you are introducing a new guinea pig to an existing piggy enclosure, you also need to proceed with a degree of caution.

Preferably, you should introduce guinea pigs to a new space all at the same time so that it is a new experience for all involved.

This is because guinea pigs already living together often form a natural order with some being more dominant than others. If you start introducing a lot of new pigs, it may upset higher ranking pigs should there no longer be enough room to hide, play or isolate away from others.

This can lead to the bullying of new and lower-ranked pigs.

It should also be noted that although guinea pigs and rabbits live in the same kinds of environment and are of similar builds, they should never be kept together. Rabbits can often bully or attack guinea pigs if put in the same enclosure, so we really wouldn’t recommend it!

Cleaning

A guinea pig’s hutch, cage or other form of living space needs to be cleaned regularly to prevent your piggy living in squalor and becoming ill!

You will need to do daily spot cleaning to ensure their enclosures are rid of soiled bedding and faeces and then will need to do a more thorough clean every 4 days.

Thankfully, pigs in large enclosures tend to be intelligent enough to urinate and defecate in one area of their hutch only, meaning the whole area does not become instantly soiled and makes daily cleaning easier.

When it comes to doing a full clean, you’ll obviously need to put your pigs in a safe enclosed area while you get to work. Ideally, you can just let them explore their run!

Then begin removing all of their bedding and hay to dispose of, making sure to hang onto any bedding or hay which is unsoiled.

This is because guinea pigs rely on smell and secretions of scents to communicate and so stripping their environment of their own recognisable scents can stress them out. So holding onto some unspoiled bedding to put back later can help prevent a sudden blitz of scents which might upset your pigs.

Then with a bucket of water and pet-friendly disinfectant, you need to get cleaning! (Don’t use ordinary house-cleaning materials, as these might harm your pet!)

Unfortunately, wooden hutches must be scrubbed with a good quality brush or old toothbrush and require a bit of elbow grease. However plastic cages will only require kitchen paper or a damp cloth. Simply spray the disinfectant around their living enclosure and get scrubbing!

Once you’ve given it your all, rinse off the area with your bucket of water and wait for it to dry.

When you are certain the area is completely dry, you can begin lining the cage and providing fresh bedding and straw, along with a decent helping of the previous week’s old bedding you’d held onto!

Then your little piggies are free to return to their fresh funhouse!

DIET

The ideal guinea pig diet should be based around some hearty helpings of grass hay, leafy veg and guinea pig pellets. It also goes without saying that your little pets will need constant access to clean drinking water, taking care to replace their bottle with fresh water every day.

Guinea pigs are herbivores, meaning they only eat plants, so don’t get any ideas about feeding them any meat products. Hay or grass should make up 80% of their diet, followed by guinea pig pellets and one teacup-sized amount of fresh greens per day.

Safe Fruit & Veg

While fruit and vegetables are obviously great choices of food for a guinea pig, some can cause an upset stomach and other various plants around your garden may actually be harmful.

So that you feel confident in the food you’re providing your piggy, consult this list of safe and suitable fruits and veg:

• Basil
• Broccoli
• Brussel Sprouts
• Cabbage
• Carrots and carrot tops ( high in sugar – moderate intake!)
• Cauliflower leaves and stalks
• Dill
• Kale
• Parsley
• Parsnip
• Radish
• Romaine lettuce
• Rocket
• Asparagus
• Celery
• Spinach
• Watercress
• Chicory
• Cucumber
• Dandelion (only small amounts – laxative qualities)

Essential Vitamin C Foods

Unfortunately, guinea pigs can’t make their own vitamin C, which means we have to help them out by providing some nutrient boosting foods!

Most reliable and efficient guinea pig pellets should advertise this fact on their packaging and will contain a suitable dose of vitamin C. However, be sure to always check the ingredients list and make sure the shelf-life is well in date to account for the fading of nutrient strength over time.

But if you’d prefer your little pipsqueaks to get their boost a little more naturally these foods are particularly rich in the world’s favourite vitamin:

• Asparagus
• Kale
• Spinach
• Asparagus
• Broccoli
• Tomatoes
• Peppers

If you’re worried you’re not supplying them with enough you could also add a pet-friendly vitamin C supplement to their drinking water.

Poo Eating – Is It Normal?

Occasionally you might spot your beloved piggy chowing down on a piece of their own poo, which naturally might make you recoil in horror?

Surely their faeces is dirty and unhealthy, otherwise, why would you have to clean their hutch out so much?!

Well, it turns out that this behaviour is actually totally normal, and strangely, even quite healthy for guinea pigs!

Guinea’s actually produce two types of poo, the hard dry pellet you scoop up during your daily spot clean, and a shiny, smelly pellet known as a caecotroph.

These special poos contain all of the goodness from their high fibre foods, and so when your guinea eats it, they’re simply re-digesting the healthy stuff!

Foods To Avoid

You’d be forgiven for thinking your guinea is fine to eat any fruits or veg you throw its way, but you need to be careful!

As previously stated, piglets are very sensitive creatures, both in personality and stomach, and there are a few foods you definitely shouldn’t feed them if you want to keep their teeth and guts healthy!

Muesli Mixes

Rodent muesli mixes are very popular, however, due to guinea pigs being very selective with their food, they have been known to ignore the healthy high in fibre parts of the mix and instead just opt to eat the bits that are high in sugar. This completely defeats the point of trying to give them a balanced diet and can cause teeth and weight issues in the long run.

Here’s a list of a few other things considered unhealthy or harmful for your little pipsqueak:

• Pickled food
• Crackers
• Pasta
• Chocolate
• Dairy products
• Cereals
• Grains
• Sugary Foods
• Sweets
• Biscuits
• Human foods (i.e bread)
• Rhubarb leaves
• Foxgloves, Daffodils, Lilies, Buttercups
• Mushrooms
• Potato tops
• Onions
• Avocado
• Oak (for chewing)
• Sweet peas
• Garden shrubs
• Nuts
• Seeds
• Dried beans
• Corn

HEALTH

As guinea pigs aren’t the most communicative of creatures, it can be incredibly difficult to spot whether they are suffering from pain or illness.

It’s therefore vital that you get to know your little guinea’s behaviour and can spot when something’s not quite right, as well as understand some of the symptoms you need to be looking out for if you suspect they are ill.

Guinea pigs can fall ill very quickly and so the best practice for preventing them from becoming seriously sick is to check them for illnesses or injury daily.

Common issues include vitamin C deficiency, respiratory issues, swollen or sore feet and UTIs.

Spotting Symptoms & Health Checklist

Watch out for any of these signs of illness on a daily basis to ensure your guinea is happy and healthy:

• Lack of eating or struggling to eat a normal amount
• Wet chin from drooling after eating
• Ensure eyes, ears and nose are free of discharge (normal for white eye discharge to be seen if a pig is grooming itself)
• Sore feet or red patches on the paws
• Incessant scratching of fur, rubbing of ear or shaking of head may indicate mites
• Heavy or laboured breathing, or odd gurgles and noises when respiring.
• Moving with a limp or stiffness
• Coat or skin in bad condition
• Overgrown toenails
• Blood in the urine or lack of urination
• Reduced droppings, or loose stools
• An unusual reduction or increase in their weight

Teeth

The teeth of a piglet never stop growing, which unfortunately means if they are not provided with sufficient food or items for chewing, their gnashers can become overly long.

This can result in a lot of pain and sometimes abscesses. They may also become misaligned or broken which can affect their ability to eat correctly.

Symptoms of teeth issues include lack of eating, dribbling and loss of weight. And of course – big teeth! You can check the size of their front fangs on a weekly basis by gently lifting the lip, but only a vet should observe their back teeth.

If you suspect they have teeth issues, only a vet will be able to correct them, so take them there as soon as possible.

Or you could just avoid dental issues altogether by ensuring your guinea pig eats a healthy balanced diet!

Hair Grooming

If you’ve chosen a guinea with seriously long locks, you’re going to have to regularly groom their coat to prevent it becoming matted and tangled.

Grooming needs to be introduced slowly and positively with patience and rewards as guineas may not naturally take to it.

You should also be aware of what your guinea’s own personal grooming habits are, as if they suddenly change, it may indicate an issue.

Flystrike

Flystrike is a hazard which occurs often in hot weather and is fatal in guinea pigs if contracted.

It occurs when flies become attracted to droppings or stained urine around your pig’s rear area and begin laying their eggs within the skin of your pet.

Ensure in the summer months you observe your pet’s rear end twice a day and clean away any dirt to prevent flystrike from occurring.

When To Go To The Vet

You should seek the help of a veterinary professional as soon as you suspect or notice your guinea pig in pain, ill or suffering.

However, guinea pigs aren’t like every other animal and so seeking veterinary help is not as easy as popping to the local vet surgery.

Make sure you are prepared for the worst and already have your pet registered with a vet who specialises in guinea pigs should they ever become ill.

The post Guinea Pig Care Guide appeared first on Petz.

Although sensitive and quiet creatures, their adorable quirks have always been beloved by young children, and so many families choose to purchase one for their kid as a kind of ‘my first pet’ and introduction to animals at home.

However, looking after one is far from child’s play, and there is, in fact, quite a lot to learn before you purchase a new wee little furball!

Sadly though, a lot of misinformation still exists about the care of hamsters, and so many new hammy owners are given the wrong advice when it comes looking after a pint-sized pal.

So to help you avoid running into any issues, we’ve put together this in-depth, trustworthy guide, to clue you up on everything you need to know on hamster caregiving!

FACTFILE

• Lifespan: 2 to 3 years
• Average Height: 5.5 – 16 cm
• Average Weight: 17 – 120 g
• Popular Breeds: Syrian, Roborovski Dwarf, Chinese, Winter Russian & Russian Dwarf
• Diet: Hamster Pellets, Timothy Hay, Fruit & Veg
• Origin: Asia, Europe

IMPORTANT THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Before you decide you really want a hamster, you need to consider these important caregiving factors:

• Hamsters are nocturnal – They sleep most of the day and can be particularly noisy at night!
• Hamsters are fragile – Although they are a great pet for young children, hamsters can be easily injured due to rough or careless handling, meaning kids should always have parent supervision when looking after them.
• Hamsters are sensitive – Hamsters are anxious animals and very sensitive to loud noises. They can often develop stress-related diseases when uncomfortable, and thrive best in quieter homes.
• Hamsters have short lifespans – If you’re looking for an animal companion to bring you decades of joy and fulfillment, a hamster isn’t going to be it.
• Hamster breeds vary greatly in size – Hamsters can be both fairly large and incredibly small depending on the breed, so make sure you choose one that’s suitable for you.

WHERE TO BUY A HAMSTER

Once you’re sure a hamster really is the pet for you, your next question is probably where to buy one from. Thankfully, hamsters are a widely available animal and can be bought from many pet shops, breeders and rescue organisations.

However, you need to make sure that whoever you buy your hamster from is reputable, and that they’ve taken good care of the animal before they come home with you.

This is because hamsters living in poor conditions could easily be carrying illness or infection, which would cause you and your family needless distress or grief should you purchase a suffering animal.

A reputable seller should keep their hamsters in a clean cage, with good access to food and water, preferably in a space on their own without any other hamsters.

Occasionally, you may see female dwarf hamsters in the same environment, but Syrians and groups of any male hamster do not get along, and so if you notice a store or breeder is keeping several in one cage, it’s likely these will all be stressed, unhappy or potentially ill hamsters.

It’s therefore important never to purchase a hamster blind over the internet without seeing it’s current living conditions first!

This is also especially important when buying a hamster from a breeder or pet store, as there are currently no approved or registered hamster breeding schemes in the UK, meaning you will be unable to source their authenticness without viewing their breeding environment for yourself.

A better bet may instead be to source one through reputable rescue organisations such as Blue Cross or the RSPCA, who are always looking to rehome hamsters. They will also often let you examine and handle the hamster before making your decision.

CHOOSING YOUR HAMSTER

Health

Before choosing your little nibbler, you first need to make sure they are in good health and ready to be given a new home.

Healthy hamsters should have been bred and raised in a clean environment that is uncrowded, with plenty of access to food and water. So if you’re witnessing anything other than that upon purchase from a seller, your alarm bells should already be ringing!

If you can, make sure you examine a hamster personally before making any firm decisions.

First, check the hamster’s fur for any patchiness or areas of damage, as well it’s skin for any ominous lumps and bumps. Then assess whether there are any weight issues, such as the hamster being too fat or too skinny. Be sure to also observe their rear end for any signs of wet tail or diarrhoea.

Although slightly more difficult to assess, you should also observe whether they’re teeth are overgrown and that it’s breathing is quiet and easy.

All in all, a healthy hamster will have a clean nose, ears and eyes, free from any discharge and will be displaying an active attitude around its enclosure through eating or exercising.

However, even if your chosen hamster appears fine, if it is sharing a cage with several others that appear to be in a sickly condition, it’s best not to take the gamble. Hamster diseases are very contagious, and so it’s likely your chosen furball will contract the same fate.

Age

As Hamster’s don’t live for very long, it’s paramount you know the approximate age of an animal before purchase.

It is best to adopt one from as young as possible to reap the full benefits of their companionship, with six weeks of age being the recommended point of purchase for baby hamsters.

You can, of course, rehome older hamsters who will be more than thankful of your hospitality, but just be wary that by 1 and a half years old they are considered elderly, and so may not be a presence in your home for much longer than six months.

Sex

We accept that some people want certain sexes of hamster when looking for a pet, and thankfully this is something you can probably determine yourself without the assessment of an expert.

If you want to know the sex of a hamster, simply gently hold them in your hand and then slowly turn them onto their back to expose its belly.

From here, you’re looking to observe something called the anogenital distance (the distance between a hamster’s genitals and their anus).

The distance is much shorter in females and can be difficult to distinguish, whereas a males genital openings will be a centimetre or two away from the anus.

You may also notice visible testicles if they are a male, or nipples along the belly if it is a female.

It can be important to determine the sex of hamsters if you are definitely planning to keep more than one in the same closure.

Although we don’t recommend it, you should only really keep female dwarf hamsters in the same enclosure to avoid unwanted mating or fighting between two males.

Handling

Hamsters can actually take a while to warm up to people, and they are not as some people might assume naturally social animals.

For the first week of owning a hamster, try not to handle them at all, as they tend to be anxious or confused by new surroundings and so need time to get used to their new home. A lot of sudden handling from a stranger would only make this anxiety worse!

Then you must go through a process of taming your hamster, which is essentially teaching it to trust you, be unafraid of you and crucially not nip or bite you every time you try to pick them up!

Never try to handle them during the day when they are most likely asleep and instead wait for them to be comfortable enough to eat, exercise and play in your presence.

From here, you can begin offering them treats, allowing them to come towards your hand, exploring it and building trust. Then begin placing treats on your palm, so that your hamster has to climb onto your hand to get their treats.

You can then begin attempting to scoop up and hold your hamster gently, ensuring this is not done from a great height, should they decide they are not ready and attempt to jump out of your palm.

It is a process that requires you to be patient and gentle, so please don’t rush or become frustrated if your hamster takes longer than a few weeks to get used to you.

They also need to be handled very gently to avoid causing them harm, and so very young children should always be supervised when playing with them.

However, if your hamster is not yet tame or continues to nip or bite in response to being handled, it can be difficult to necessarily handle them when you need to clean their cage.

In this instance, be sure to use gloves to protect your fingers, or distract them with a paper tube full of nesting material that will garner their interest and allow you to transport them somewhere else.

Bear in mind both of these could be stressful situations for a hamster, and so again take as much care as possible.

ENVIRONMENT

Housing

As you are probably well aware, hamsters need to be kept in cages that are well constructed, providing no possibilities for escape and free from sharp hazards which might harm them.

The standard and best choice of cages are wire-topped metal cages with a deep based plastic tray, which can be easily removed for cleaning purposes.

The depth of the tray (minimum 3 cm) is particularly important to allow room for burrowing and nesting, while wire bars also allow something for them to climb up, an activity which hamsters surprisingly enjoy as part of their daily exercise. Although make sure they aren’t small enough to squeeze through the gaps!

This cage must be large enough for them to move around in and depending on the breed of hamster, the bigger or smaller the cage they’ll need.

As the largest breed of hamster, it’s recommended that Syrians are offered a cage with a minimum base of 960 square cm and a 44cm vertical height. Conversely, smaller breeds such as the dwarf require just a 770 square cm base with a 17cm height. You may also want to purchase a cage with multiple levels so that you can offer more amusement and toys for your hamster.

If choosing plastic or glass-walled terrarium style enclosure, be wary that it needs to offer as much ventilation as possible!

Cage Essentials

As well as the cage itself being suitable in material and size, what’s actually inside the enclosure is just as crucial to ensuring your hamster is kept healthy and happy in their environment.

Here are some of the things you’ll want to have in your hamster cage:

Nest Boxes
Hamsters spend most of their day sleeping and so need somewhere to hide and rest in, that’s secluded and dark. Fill the box or bed with nesting material to provide a comfy, safe haven for your hamster.

Exercise Wheel
Hamsters can run up to five miles a night in the wild, and so to hone their natural instincts, they need to be kept actively stimulated at night in their cage. An exercise wheel offers the easiest way for them to keep fit and healthy in this small space.

Toys & Entertainment
Sitting in a cage all day can get boring, and so supplying your pet with more than just a wheel can help keep them curious and enjoying life. Multi-levelled cages provide lots of fun ways to design amusement parks full of tunnels, tubes and interactive playthings to keep them occupied.

Hamster Balls

Hamster balls are often seen as the best way of giving your pet time outside of their cage, and obviously don’t require you to do much handling.

However, don’t think you can just chuck them in a ball and leave them be!

Hamster balls can be potentially dangerous, and so you need to supervise your pet at all times while they’re playing in one, ensuring they don’t meet any hazardous obstacles on their trip!

You should also limit a hamster’s ball-playing time to a maximum of 15 minutes, as they can become stressed or feel confined after a short amount of time.

Chewing Blocks
Hamster’s teeth never stop growing, and so they need items that can help them gnaw down their gnashers to an efficient size. Gnawing blocks and specialised softwood branches can be purchased to help this.

Food Bowls & Water Bottles
To prevent the spread of dirt and bacteria around the cage, food bowls can help keep food that gets left by your hamster to one side and provides them with a designated feeding area.

A constant water source through the use of a water bottle is also crucial, as your hamster should be able to take a drink whenever it needs to.

Bedding & Nesting Materials

Hamsters love nothing more than burrowing through to the bottom of a cage and so providing them with thick layers of nesting and bedding materials is important for their happiness

Although you might assume these are just different ways of describing the same thing, bedding and nesting materials actually have two separately important jobs and so you’ll need to know the difference before supplying them to your hamster.

Bedding is the substrate that lines the bottom of their cage.

Nesting materials are substances they can use to fashion themselves a soft and fluffy bed.

Good bedding should provide your pet with a fairly soft and comfortable surface to walk on, while also being able to act as a litter which successfully soaks up urine.

Most owners use dust-free wood shavings to do this, with Aspen chips being deemed the safest in terms of smell. Paper-based substrates and fibre-based options are also popular, provided your hamster doesn’t enjoy eating them!

You should also generally avoid scented substrates, as these aren’t actually beneficial for your hamster. Essentially, your choice just needs to not be soft, unharmful and moisture absorbing!

In terms of nesting material, the cheapest way to provide for your hamster is with torn up kitchen paper or tissue. However if you’d rather give them something you’re confident will be healthy for them, there’s plenty of dedicated hamster nesting materials sold by pet stores.

Nesting material to avoid includes shredded newspaper (as ink can be toxic to hamsters), cotton wool (causes blockages in their stomach and gets caught around their legs) and straw (coarse and tough for them to chew).

Be wary that the perfect bedding for your hamster could also be dependent on their breed as they may be used to different climates!

Temperature & Conditions

Hamsters require their home to be free of draughts, dry and clean to thrive.

You should, therefore, ensure their enclosure is in a fairly warm area of the house, and that they have plenty of nesting materials to keep themselves warmer in more wintery conditions.

The perfect temperature conditions for a hamster are between 18 – 21 degrees Celsius and be warned, should temperatures drop too low, hamsters will begin to hibernate to ‘get them through winter’, whether it is or not!

Lighting & Noise

Hamsters can become stressed and depressed by loud and irritating noises and so they really need to be placed in a calming and soothing area of your house.

Avoid placing them in communal areas where they might be loud TV sets, computer screens, vacuum cleaners, sources of running water (sinks) or anything else which might make an unsettling vibration.

As hamsters are nocturnal, it also helps to establish some kind of lighting pattern so they won’t be confused by a serious lack of nighttime! Try and switch the lights off in their room at a similar time every night to help your hamster establish a routine.

Cleaning

Regularly cleaning your hamster’s home and avoiding frequently disturbing and distressing them can be a difficult balance to get right.

In general, you should be thoroughly cleaning out their cage no more than once a week, changing their bedding and nesting materials and washing the cage and some of their equipment with soapy water.

However, it is important to remember that hamsters use smells to recognise and communicate, and so completely cleansing the cage of their scents will likely cause them lots of confusion.

Therefore it’s recommended to leave some unsoiled old bedding or nesting materials in their cage and to only wash half of their equipment to leave some comforting and recognisable scents in the enclosure.

While cleaning a cage, make sure your hamster has been removed and safely placed somewhere like a rodent playpen or hamster ball and that someone is supervising them while you get to work.

Then remove any soiled bedding or nesting materials and any discarded food at the bottom of the cage, as well as their toys and wheel.

Now their enclosure is empty you can clean the entire cage in hot, soapy water before rinsing and drying thoroughly. Make sure to do the same with the equipment you have chosen to wash, and to always do so with food and water bowls which pick up bacteria more easily.

After everything that needs to be cleaned has been, you can then begin lining the dry cage with new bedding and nesting materials and replacing the newly clean equipment and toys.

To prevent this weekly cleaning being a huge job, you should also do daily spot checks to prevent a build-up of soiled, damp bedding and to remove any left food which may grow mouldy, as is best practice to ensure your hamster does not become ill.

Housing In Groups & Environments With Other Animals

As previously stated in this guide, housing a few hamsters in the same enclosure is a recipe for disaster, however, some owners still insist on doing so.

So if you are considering housing a pair or trio of hamsters together – let us hit you with the ground rules first!

The first big rule is to not bother having a mix of different breeds all in the same cage, as they will simply not get on, leading to fighting, aggression and potentially even injury or death.

Most hamster breeds are in fact so solitary that they would not even civilly share a cage with another hamster of their own breed, and this is particularly true of Syrian or Chinese hamsters and all breeds of male hamster.

However, with a lot of care, female dwarf hamsters may be housed in pairs or trios providing they have been sharing an environment since early life and are so used to each other’s company. This would only usually occur if they were littermates.

To keep them happy, try and provide multiple hamsters with an incredibly large cage with separate nesting boxes, where they can delegate their own area and avoid getting into fights with the others.

If keeping several hamsters in separate cages, you also need to be aware this doesn’t totally solve your problems.

As they communicate through smells, a rodent will often be able to tell if you have been handling another hamster or can smell the odours of a hamster’s cage directly next to theirs, causing great deals of stress.

So in short, keeping more than one is more hassle than it’s worth!

In homes where dogs or cats are present, you should also aim to seclude hamsters from the same area as another pet as they can also find the smells of a dog or cat stressful as they associate them with the presence of a predator.

DIET

The ideal hamster diet will contain a mix of several things.

In terms of commercially available hamster foods, standard hamster pellets are usually the best choice and will often be formulated to contain plenty of nutrients your little furball needs.

You can then supplement this main food supply with small amounts of fresh fruit, vegetables or herbs and a special variety of hay called Timothy Hay that’s full of fibre and is ideal for small pets.

Occasional treats you can give your hammy include things like nuts, boiled egg or mealworms.

It also goes without saying that your hamster will need constant access to clean water through a water dispensing bottle!

Safe Fruit & Veg

Most fruits and vegetables are fine for hamsters to eat apart from citrus fruits, grapes and rhubarb.

Vegetables:

• Carrot
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Chicory
• Spinach
• Sweet peppers
• Cucumber
• Cress
• Courgette

Fruits:

• Apple
• Pear
• Peach
• Melon

However, all of these foods should be given in moderation, as it is not good to give hamsters too much fruit due to their high sugar content!

Hamsters can also enjoy nibbling on various herbs too!

• Sage
• Parsley
• Basil
• Coriander

Chewing and Gnawing Foods

Hamsters help keep their teeth in check and stop them growing too long by chewing and gnawing on things. You can do this by providing them with specialist gnawing toys, or you can use hard food or woods instead to be more economical!

For shredding or chewing materials, you can use:

• Coconut husks
• Plain, unbleached loofah
• Seagrass
• Hay cubes
• Pumice stone
• Cardboard

Instead of a gnawing block, you can also use untreated softwood. Simply bake them on a low heat for an hour and thoroughly wash them to make sure they’re safe. Suitable woods are:

• Apple
• Dogwood
• Willow
• Grapevine
• Hawthorn
• Hazelnut
• Yucca
• Poplar
• Quince
• Elm and Red Elm
• Pear

Foods To Avoid

You’d be forgiven for thinking your hamster is fine to eat any fruits or veg you throw its way, as well as any seemingly well-endorsed hamster food.

But you need to be careful!

As previously stated, hamsters are very sensitive, both in personality and stomach, and there are a few foods you definitely shouldn’t feed them!

Muesli Mixes
Hamster muesli mixes are very popular, however, due to hamsters hoarding and selective nature, they have been known to ignore the healthy high in fibre parts of the mix and instead just opt to eat the bits that are high in sugar. This completely defeats the point of trying to give them a balanced diet and can cause teeth and weight issues in the long run.

Here’s a list of other things considered unhealthy or harmful for your wee hammy:

• Apple seeds
• Raw beans
• Raw potatoes
• Almonds
• Citrus fruit
• Garlic
• Onion
• Rhubarb leaves or raw rhubarb
• Chocolate
• Sugary or salty foods
• Junk food
• Grapes

HEALTH

Hamsters can become ill very quickly and so it pays to frequently check them over for any signs of pain, illness or suffering.

A healthy pet should be behaving non-erratically, remaining active and have a shiny glossy coat with bright, dry eyes.

In general, you should check your hamster for any underlying illnesses once a week by handling them, checking for lumps and bumps and ensuring they are a normal weight. If you can feel their bones this may mean they aren’t eating enough.

Hamsters are also very vulnerable to diseases caused by infected food, water and dirty litter –  so make sure to keep on top of your cleaning routine!

Disturbing Behaviour

Sometimes you may not notice any deterioration in your hamster’s health but rather some bizarre changes in their behaviour.

Generally, this is caused by a boring environment, which leads your hamster to become frustrated, stressed and unstimulated.

This frequently is displayed with unusual actions such as constant gnawing of the bars on their cage, running around in circles or any other odd repetitive behaviour.

And so, the easiest way to fix this irrational activity is to alleviate their boredom!

A bigger cage and more toys should solve the issue.

Another reason may be due to stress from being woken or disturbed too much by owners or young children, and if this might be the case you are advised to scale back your hamster handlings.

If symptoms do not improve, ask for advice from your veterinary professional!

Other Regular Health Checks

If you’re a first-time hamster owner, there are a few things you may not yet realise you need to be checking, as no one seems to mention them too often!

Firstly, you need to be aware of a hamster’s teeth!

As previously stated, hamsters can benefit from gnawing toys and foods to help keep their teeth healthy and in size, otherwise, they will overgrow! Keep an eye on your hamster’s teeth, as if they become too large or one break, they may have trouble eating.

Another thing to be aware of is your hamster’s scent glands.

In the cleaning section, we talked about how hamsters communicate through smell and so it is often beneficial to clean their cage in sections rather than all in one go so that scents remain.

These odours we referred to our secreted through scent glands in your hamster, which are actually more prominent in males than females. They are found on the hips of Syrians hamsters and the stomachs of Dwarf species and are often mistaken to be harmful lumps or bumps by owners.

They are however completely harmless and important for a hamster’s way of life.

As always though, if you notice a change in their glands such as size, discharge or bleeding – call your vet!

Finally, on a less serious note, if your hamster is rocking longer locks, you’ll need to comb and groom them to prevent hair from getting matted or tangled!

Hibernation

Something not too many people are aware of is that hamsters in the wild actually tend to hibernate in very cold months.

And sometimes they’ll do so in a cage too, especially if your room isn’t hot enough!

Owners can often get confused by a hibernating hamster, and there has been known to be many unfortunate incidents in which people assume they have died and so give them a badly timed send-off!

To work out whether your hamster is hibernating or not, gently touch it’s fur, feeling for signs of warmth or breathing.

A hibernating hamster will still be warm whereas a dead one will have lost all of its body heat.

To revive them from a long slumber, you can also warm them up using a heating pad or similar device, if they’re hibernating they should wake up once the pad reaches a significantly warmer temperature.

When To Go To The Vet

If you notice any of the following things, there’s a chance your hamster could be seriously unwell and so you will need to take them to a vet as soon as possible.

Symptoms to be crucially aware of include:

• Any abnormal lumps
• Possible injuries (displayed by limping etc)
• Firm, swollen stomach
• Aggressive behaviour
• Scratching in one area
• Sneezing or coughing (Hamsters can catch human colds!)
• Discharge from ears, nostrils or vagina
• Not eating or drinking
• Drinking too much water
• Sitting with a hunched position
• Sunken eyes
• Lethargy/non-activity at usual times
• A wet tail or wet faeces/diarrhoea

The post Hamster Care Guide appeared first on Petz.

Affectionate, curious and cuddly, rabbits can quickly become part of the family and are incredibly easy to bond with, making them a great first pet for young children.

However, looking after one is no walk in the park, and there’s a lot to learn before you purchase a new furry friend!

Sadly, a lot of misinformation still exists about the care of rabbits, and so many new bunny owners are given the wrong advice when it comes looking after a long-eared pal.

So to help you avoid running into any issues, we’ve put together this in-depth, trustworthy guide, to clue you up on everything you need to know on rabbit caregiving!

FACTFILE

• Lifespan: 6 to 10 years
• Average Height: 17 – 40 cm
• Average Weight: 1 – 8 kg
• Popular Breeds: Lionhead, Angora, Netherland Dwarf, Mini Lop
• Diet: Hay, Grass
• Origin: Europe

IMPORTANT THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Before you decide you really want a rabbit, you need to consider these important caregiving factors:

• Rabbits need time and attention – They must be checked at least once a day or more without fail.
• Rabbits need to live in groups – They are not solitary animals and need to be kept in groups or pairs to keep them healthy and happy. If you want one, you’re going to have to get another.
• Rabbits need regular vaccinations – They need to be protected against myxomatosis and VHD.
• Rabbits should be neutered – Neutering helps prevent disease and unwanted pregnancy.
• Rabbits are sensitive – Although they are a great pet for young children, rabbits sensitivity means kids should always have parent supervision when looking after bunnies.
• Long-haired rabbits need grooming – Long fur can become matted quickly, and so these breeds need daily brushing.
• Rabbits can live for 10 years – Make sure you have the time, money and facilities to cope with this.

WHERE TO BUY A RABBIT

Once you’re sure a bunny really is the pet for you, your next question is probably where to buy some from. Thankfully, rabbits are a widely available animal and can be bought from many pet shops, breeders and rescue organisations.

However, you need to make sure that whoever you buy your rabbits from is reputable, and that they’ve taken good care of the animals before they come home with you.

This is because rabbits living in poor conditions could easily be carrying illness or infection, which would cause you and your family needless distress or grief should you purchase a suffering animal.

A reputable seller should keep their rabbits in an appropriate area, preferably a hutch, that is clean, dry and not overcrowded. They should also clearly be on an appropriate diet of hay and grass with access to clean water.

CHOOSING YOUR RABBITS

Health

When choosing your little hoppers, you first need to make sure they are in good health and ready to be given a new home.

Healthy rabbits are active and wary of their surroundings, with clear bright eyes and undamaged fur. These are the easiest things to spot, but if you can, try and also observe whether they have pink and moist gums, even teeth, and clean feet without sores. Their droppings should also be well-formed.

Age

For those looking for a bunny, the perfect age for a baby rabbit is around 6 – 8 weeks old, once they have been weaned from their mother. However, you will find rabbits of all ages of being sold and adult rabbits can make just as good pets.

Sex

If you want certain sexes of rabbit, make sure you buy from a seller with experience of sexing one, as it can be quite difficult to determine. You don’t want to bring home Peter and discover five years later he’s a Miffy!

Knowing this is also important when it comes to pairing rabbits together.

This is because it is unusual for two male rabbits to live in harmony without fighting, so two females or a male and female pair are usually the preferred choices.

Handling

As rabbits are so sensitive, socialising with them at an early age is important to avoid them becoming too distressed when coming into contact with humans.

Ensure you are always gentle with them, move slowly, and speak in a quiet, hushed tone to avoid scaring them.

This is why supervising children with rabbits is important, as it’s easy for a rabbit to become startled in their presence.

You should also take care when picking up a rabbit, as picking them up from a great height can unnerve them, so it is best to keep your interactions at ground level.

ENVIRONMENT

Housing

The most important thing to consider before you bring a bunny home is where on earth you’re going to keep it. While some find it easier to keep their rabbits outside in a hutch, others want to be more sociable with their pet and choose to keep it indoors.

Please make sure you read the specifics on both options before you make a decision!

Outdoor Rabbit Housing

A classic outside rabbit hutch needs to be suitably large enough for your rabbits to hop around in. This is because rabbits who live in too confined conditions can develop skeletal issues and become irritated and unfriendly very quickly.

Specifically, they need an area in which they can:

– Stand on their hind legs without their ears touching the roof
– Hop across three times without reaching the end
– Comfortably stretch out or lie down in

The vastly varying sizes of rabbit breed mean that the hutch dimensions needed differ greatly from owner to owner, but the average-sized rabbit would require at least a 1.8m x 0.9m x 0.9m space.

But gone are the days when rabbits could simply be locked away in this hutch till you came home.

To boost their health and happiness, bunnies now require access to a run or an enclosed area attached to their outdoor home, allowing them to get some fresh hair and hop around outside.

Try and also keep the accommodation in a shaded area away from direct sunlight, or where it could be subject to aggressive winds or rain, as all of these weather conditions can be stressful for a rabbit and even harmful.

Finally, you obviously need to ensure your hutch is as secure as possible, to prevent escapes and sly foxes getting in at your cute little bunnies, but simple strong sliding bolts and predator-proof materials should do the trick.

Another important thing to note is not to keep rabbits in the same enclosure as a Guinea Pig.

Their similarities often lead owners and even sellers to keep them in the same areas. However, they have completely different needs, and can often fight each other in the same environment.

Indoor Rabbit Housing

Rabbits can also happily be kept indoors, but if you’re genuinely considering keeping a house rabbit, be warned: It is a lot of extra work.

Firstly, they still need a base which they can retire to, as well as sleep and eat in.

For indoor rabbits, this is often a cage filled with bedding, which should be 3m x 2m x 1m at a minimum, although obviously, the bigger the better.

Then much like cats or dogs, they need equipment like food and water bowls, digging trays and litter trays to make sure they have everything they need to be happy.

They’ll need to be litter trained to prevent them from spraying and leaving droppings around the house and you’ll need to fill your house up with specialist chewing toys too. This is due to their love of nibbling things, and with chew toys, they’re less likely to gobble up all your furniture!

Annoyingly, all cables must also have a protective covering to ensure your chomper doesn’t nibble through them and most house plants need to be removed as they can be poisonous.

To stop these kinds of situations, we recommend creating a small pen or area in your home purely for the rabbit to play in, well away from any chewable items!

But it’s not all doom and gloom having a house rabbit, and one of the positives is that they often don’t need a long-eared partner, as the constant presence of people keeps them entertained.

Bedding

For bedding, rabbits require clean, bagged straw or hay.

Straw holds more warmth than hay and so is often the best choice for winter, but it has no nutritional content. Conversely, hay forms a large part of a rabbit’s diet, and so can be used as both food and bedding, effectively killing two birds with one stone!

Bedding must be checked on a daily basis and always removed if soiled.

This prevents their habitats from ever becoming dirty or smelly and also limits a rabbits exposure to the high levels of ammonia in their urine.

To cut back on your daily checks, litter training a rabbit can help them maintain a cleaner living environment, while also making your cleaning schedule slightly less frequent!

Make sure to also pay particular attention to their accommodation during hot weather, as flies will often lay their eggs in soiled bedding, resulting in maggots burrowing into a rabbit’s fur and body. This is known as flystrike and can be fatal if not prevented.

Cleaning

Rabbit hutches and cages require weekly cleaning at a minimum to prevent them from becoming too smelly or dirty.

Here all bedding must be removed and replaced and the inside of the accommodation wiped down to be rid of urine deposits.

If using a cage, you should probably also disinfect it on a weekly basis, taking care to rinse thoroughly once soaked for 30 minutes.

DIET

A rabbits diet is mostly made up of hay or good quality grass, accounting for at least 70% of their diet!

Most health issues with rabbits are purely down to nutrition, and so it’s crucial that your long-eared lop always has access to plenty of hay so that they can graze happily throughout the day.

They require a high fibre diet, with moderate protein levels as well as a smaller amount of fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals.

To help them achieve total nourishment, it’s advised you feed rabbits a pellet diet in addition to their hay or grass rations as this ensures they are getting all the nutrients they miss through their daily graze. Pellets are far superior to muesli mixes in terms of quality, and can also improve your bunny’s dental health if long in shape.

You can also feed rabbits a variety of fresh, leafy greens and vegetables such as broccoli, cabbage and watercress. It is also safe to provide them with fruit provided it is in small amounts as their high rate of natural sugars is not good for hoppers when consumed in vast quantities.

Your rabbit should also always have access to clean water, through a drip bottle or a large bowl.

Foods To Avoid

As bunnies seem to enjoy chomping away on any old vegetable, you can be forgiven as an owner for throwing any old plant their way.

But you need to be careful!

As previously stated, rabbits are very sensitive, both in personality and stomach, and there are a few foods you definitely shouldn’t feed them, some of which can be fatal if ingested!:

• Avocado
• Iceberg Lettuce
• Walnuts
• Meat
• Chocolate
• Chard
• Hamster Food
• Potatoes
• Rhubarb
• Cauliflower
• Oatmeal
• Cereal
• Bread
• Biscuits
• Crackers

HEALTH

To give your long-eared friend the best care possible, you are going to have to take measures to ensure it always remains in optimum health!

Firstly, rabbit nails need to be checked regularly to ensure they don’t get too long, and trimmed by yourself or a groomer if they are!

You should also perform daily checks on your bunny to check for any signs of disease or illness. The easiest way to spot this is by examining their eyes, ears and nose for any discharge and making sure their eyes are always clear and bright.

Any sudden weight loss, changes in fur quality, reduction in appetite and lumps or lethargy can also be symptoms of something wrong. If you notice any of these issues, seek advice from your vet as soon as possible.

Veterinary Care

Like all animals, rabbits require regular veterinary check-ups to ensure they are in the best of health. It’s recommended that bunnies are taken to the vets biannually for a routine inspection and that they also receive important vaccinations when necessary.

During a check-up, vets will examine and identify any problems your rabbit is having and will observe their teeth and give advice on how to prevent dental disease. They will also be weighed and you will be able to seek advice and declare any worries you may have about your rabbit.

In terms of vaccinations, rabbits should be given a vaccine for the deadly VHD virus at 12 weeks of age and then again 4 weeks later once a juvenile.

From there, a rabbit requires the VHD vaccine once every 6 months as an adult. You can choose from a myxomatosis/VHD1 vaccine or a VHD2 vaccine for your bunny, and it’s important to do so as if a rabbit contracts the virus they are unlikely to recover.

Vets will also be able to advise on any neutering or spaying procedures. Males can remain fertile for up to 6 weeks after a procedure, whereas females will be made infertile immediately.

Females will, however, take slightly longer to recover from the operation than males, as it is more invasive.

Neutering rabbits is considered one of the best things you can do for them as it helps decrease aggression and fighting in groups, urine spraying and unwanted pregnancy.

For females, it also prevents the occurrence of uterine cancer, which is a very common reproductive disease for female rabbits.

Non-Neutered Rabbits

Female rabbits become sexually active from around 3 months of age and unlike many animals, don’t have a set oestrous cycle. Instead, they go through a process of induced ovulation, in which the act of mating will bring on ovulation in a doe.

The average gestation period for a rabbit is just 28-32 days, and females will usually produce a litter of 4-12 babies. These bunnies will be raised by their mother in a small nest for the first 3 weeks of their life and should only be weaned once they reach around 8 weeks of age.

The post Rabbit Care Guide appeared first on Petz.

It is characterised by the hamsters ‘wet tail’ which is caused by their loose, watery stools due to the infection.

Wet tail can occur in hamsters of any age and is a health issue that all owners need to be made aware of. One of the biggest causes is unhygienic living conditions, which is why you need to clean their bedding regularly.

Survival chances remain pretty slim for the disease, so it’s important you know how to best treat or prevent the illness if you ever spot the symptoms.

What causes wet tail in hamsters?

Due to how serious an infection wet tail is, the most successful way to treat it is by preventing it from ever occurring in the first place.

It’s therefore very important to understand the various causes of the disease so that you can take pre-emptive measures with your hamster:

Stress

The main cause of wet tail is stress, and so the disease tends to affect very young hamsters more than adults. Baby hamsters who have been recently separated from their mothers or taken into a home too soon are at particular risk as the experience can sometimes be too traumatic for them.

Other causes of stress in older hamsters might be too much handling from their owner, improper caging, changes in diet or environment, and even death of a partner/cage mate.

Unclean living area

If your hamster’s cage is bordering on a pigsty, it will only cause bad bacteria to build up in their system.

Bacterial issues

As wet tail is caused by bacterial overgrowth in the stomach, it sometimes is just the equivalent of a stomach bug in humans, but with far more serious results.

Hamster Wet Tail Symptoms

The clearest and most obvious symptom of wet tail is of course… a wet tail. This will be matted with faeces and so will naturally have quite a foul smell, which may be your first indicator something is wrong. However, there are other signs of the disease to watch out for.

Other symptoms include:

• Lethargy
• Lack of appetite
• Folded ears
• Aggressive behaviour
• Oversleeping
• Irritated behaviour, walking with an arched back
• Dull coat from lack of grooming
• Sunken eyes
• Weight loss
• Protruding rectum

As symptoms can take up to several days to appear, you may well notice one or more of the above prior to the most glaring signs.

It’s important to remember your hamster can also have diarrhoea without it being wet tail. Diarrhoea is a symptom of a wet tail, not the cause of it, and so if they are merely having loose stools with no other symptoms, they’ve likely just had too much food with high-water content.

If you’re not sure check with your veterinary professional!

Treatment for wet tail

Wet tail can become fatal for hamsters within days, and even when treated its still possible that your hamster won’t recover. It’s therefore imperative that you spot the symptoms within the first 24 – 48 hours and immediately seek the advice or help of a veterinary professional.

A vet will probably then prescribe your pet with antibiotics and if necessary inject them with fluids to alleviate the severe dehydration caused by diarrhoea. They may keep your hamster hospitalised in their surgery or allow you to take them home to administer the prescribed medication yourself.

A vet is the only person who can prescribe you with the antibiotics to cure your furry friend, so don’t be fooled into thinking you can treat the disease with home remedies.

There are many over-the-counter drugs for your pet that are advertised as ‘Wet Tail Drops’. While these may be effective in helping stop your hamster’s diarrhoea, they will be unsuccessful in treating the bacterial infection.

Survival for wet tail is very low, but it is possible that your pet will recover with prescribed medication.

What to do if your hamster has wet tail

If your hamster is suffering from wet tail, your number one priority is to take them to a vet.

However, there are a few other steps you should take to lessen symptoms and extend your hamsters life before you can get them medical care:

If you own more than one hamster, make sure you remove the one suffering from wet tail from the cage and keep them in a separate environment. This is because wet tail is a very contagious bacterial infection and can easily spread to any other hamster in the cage through secondhand contact. Everything they have come into contact with must therefore be sanitised as soon as possible!

Avoid giving them foods with high water content. Wet tail causes your hamster to lose fluids rapidly through diarrhoea, causing severe dehydration. Fruit and veg will therefore only make their stools looser and exacerbate the problem further, so try feeding them dried foods to help with this symptom.

Do not bathe to clean faeces. Probably the worst symptom of wet tail is the unsightly and smelly mess of hair and faeces on their backsides. On seeing this, you may be tempted to give your hamster a wash, however, giving them a bath at any time is detrimental to hamster’s coats and skin. Instead, use a cotton bud to gently clean the area.

Rehydrate. If your hamster appears to not be drinking then they will begin to suffer from dehydration very quickly. You can solve this by an act known as scruffing. This involves very gently holding a hamster by the extra skin on the back of their neck which results in them opening their mouths. From here you can apply measurements of water with a syringe, very slowly and in small amounts over short intervals.

How to prevent wet tail

Unfortunately, wet tail is a disease that can occur no matter how well you care for your hamster, especially if it has been brought on by stress.

However, there are certain precautions you can take to ensure you do not cause the illness yourself or exacerbate any pre-existing stress:

Limit your handling of new hamsters. Although it’s understandable you want to cuddle and play with your hamster, it’s not always the best idea if they are new to your home or especially young. Constantly handling them before they’ve settled into a new environment will likely induce stress.

Keep their cage clean and disinfect once a week.  A dirty, unkempt environment can often raise a hamster’s stress as well as cause wet tail through a build-up of bad bacteria.

Observe a hamster well before purchase. When browsing for a new pet, it’s not unheard of that you may spot a hamster already suffering from symptoms of wet tail. It’s unlikely that suddenly moving them into your home is going to cure them, so make sure to observe their behaviour properly before purchase. Always buy from a reputable seller who has cared for the hamster as well as you aim to do.

Related: Do Hamsters Hibernate?

The post What Is Hamster Wet Tail? appeared first on Petz.

Ferret diets

• Chicken wings
• Turkey necks
• Rabbit
• Game birds
• Pigeons
• Lamb
• Offal
• Lambs heart
• Chicken
• Lamb

• Chicks
• Rats
• Mice

Dried ferret food

Ferret treats

Food ferrets must avoid

• Apple
• Blackberries
• Lentils
• Pears
• All forms of beans
• Raspberries
• Spinach
• Bananas
• Blueberries
• Broccoli
• Brussel sprouts
• Dates
• Figs
• Kiwi fruit
• Onions
• Oranges
• Split peas
• Dried plums
• Sweet potato
• Peanut butter
• Raisins
• Rice
• Bananas
• Salt
• Chocolate
• Nuts

What do baby ferrets eat?

Common issues when feeding ferrets

Can I keep ferrets with other small animals?

Related Reading

• Rabbit Care Guide UK
• Guinea Pig Care Guide UK

The post What Do Ferrets Eat? appeared first on Petz.

Guinea Pig Sound Chart

Happy Guinea Pig Sounds

Wheeking — The Classic Guinea Pig Sound

The iconic wheek is a loud, high-pitched whistle that guinea pigs use almost exclusively with their human owners. You’ll hear it when they see you approaching with food, hear the fridge opening, or when it’s feeding time. Some guinea pigs wheek for attention, essentially “shouting” until you come over. It’s a sound of excitement and anticipation — and one of the most endearing guinea pig traits. Frequent wheeking when you’re nearby is a sign your guinea pig recognises you and associates you with good things.

Purring (Low-Pitched) — Contentment

A deep, low, continuous purring means your guinea pig is relaxed and happy. You’ll often hear this during gentle stroking, especially along the back. It’s the guinea pig equivalent of a cat’s purr. If your guinea pig purrs while being petted, you’ve found their favourite spot — keep going!

Chutting / Clucking — Exploring Happily

Soft, rhythmic clucking sounds (sometimes called “chutting” or “bubbling”) indicate a content, curious guinea pig. You’ll hear this during floor time, when exploring new areas, or when foraging for food. It’s a background hum of happiness — like a guinea pig humming to themselves.

Warning and Aggressive Sounds

Rumble Strutting — Dominance Display

A deep, resonating rumble accompanied by a distinctive side-to-side swagger (the “rumble strut”) is a dominance behaviour. Males use it during courtship, but both sexes use it to establish hierarchy. If two guinea pigs are rumble-strutting at each other, they’re negotiating who’s boss. This is usually normal — only intervene if it escalates to teeth chattering or physical fighting.

Teeth Chattering — Back Off!

Teeth chattering is a clear warning: “I’m angry, and I will bite if you don’t back off.” The rapid, sharp clicking sound is often accompanied by raised hackles (puffed-up fur), a rigid posture, and sometimes foot-stamping. If you hear this during handling, put your guinea pig down gently. Between guinea pigs, it can precede a fight — separate them if it persists.

Hissing — Defensive Aggression

Similar to teeth chattering but quieter, hissing is a more controlled warning. It means your guinea pig wants to be left alone. Common in guinea pigs that haven’t been socialised well or are in pain. Respect the boundary — don’t force interaction.

Distress Sounds — Act Immediately

Shrieking / Screaming — Pain or Terror

A loud, piercing shriek is the guinea pig equivalent of screaming. It means your guinea pig is in severe pain or extreme fear. Check immediately for:

• Injury (caught foot, bitten by cage mate)
• Something stuck (water bottle, hay rack)
• Predator presence (cat or dog too close)

If there’s no obvious cause and the screaming continues, contact a vet — guinea pigs rarely scream without serious reason.

Whining / Moaning — Unhappy

A soft, nasal whining sound means your guinea pig is uncomfortable or annoyed. Common during unwanted handling (being held too long), when a dominant cage mate is bullying them, or when they need the toilet during lap time. It’s a gentle “I’d rather not” — respect it by adjusting the situation.

Chirping — The Mysterious Sound

Chirping sounds exactly like a bird singing — it’s one of the rarest and most mysterious guinea pig vocalisations. Researchers still aren’t certain what triggers it. When chirping, guinea pigs often enter a trance-like state, sitting motionless while “singing.” It’s most commonly associated with stress, anxiety, or grief (often heard after losing a companion), though some owners report it in seemingly content guinea pigs. If your guinea pig chirps, observe closely for signs of stress or illness.

Understanding Body Language with Sounds

Guinea pig sounds are easiest to interpret with accompanying body language:

• Popcorning (jumping and twisting mid-air) + wheeking = pure joy
• Freezing (completely still) + no sound = fear
• Raised hackles + teeth chattering = about to fight
• Lying flat, relaxed + low purring = complete contentment
• Hiding + soft whimpering = scared, needs security

FAQs

Why does my guinea pig wheek at night?

Guinea pigs are crepuscular (most active at dawn and dusk), so some nighttime wheeking is normal. Persistent nighttime wheeking usually means they want food, water, or attention. Ensure fresh hay is available overnight, as guinea pigs graze constantly. If nighttime noise is disruptive, don’t place the cage in your bedroom.

Should I worry if my guinea pig never makes noise?

Quiet guinea pigs exist, but a suddenly silent guinea pig that was previously vocal could indicate illness or depression. Guinea pigs are social animals — solo guinea pigs may become withdrawn and quiet. The RSPCA recommends keeping guinea pigs in pairs or groups for their mental wellbeing. If your guinea pig stops making noise entirely, monitor for other signs of illness.

Do guinea pig sounds mean they like me?

Yes! Wheeking when they see you, low purring during handling, and chutting while exploring near you are all signs of a positive bond. Guinea pigs reserve wheeking primarily for their human owners — it’s a sound they rarely make with other guinea pigs. If your guinea pig wheeks at the sound of your voice or footsteps, they consider you their favourite person.

The post Guinea Pig Noises & Sounds: What They Mean (Complete Guide 2026) appeared first on Petz.

Unlike hamsters and other rodents, you can end up caring for guinea pigs over a good number of years, so you need to be sure you are committed to providing the proper care and devotion for a sustained length of time.

To prolong their life, ensure they have enough space in their cage and to run around in. You need to buy quality dedicated guinea pig food for them, as well as keep them in a pair (or more if possible).

Naturally, there are many factors that can influence how long or short a guinea pig lives and these mainly depend on breed, diet and medical issues.

Average Guinea pig lifespan by breed

Although their actual care and living environment have more of an influence on their lifespan, certain breeds of guinea pigs are known to live slightly longer.

Here’s a quick guide to how long certain breeds live:

• Teddy: 4 – 5 years
• Texel: 4 – 7 years
• American, Cuy: 4 – 8 years
• Abyssinian: 5 – 7 years
• Himalayan, Peruvian, Sheltie, Silkie, White-crested: 5 – 8 years
• Skinny: 7 – 8 years

Be prepared for your guinea pig to live longer

Before purchasing a guinea pig, bear in mind that they can live much longer than the suggested average lifespan, especially if you take really good care of them!

Some Guinea Pigs have been known to live almost twice as long as the average lifespan, which means these little furries could well be with you for a significant part of your life!

The oldest ever guinea pigs

The oldest guinea pig ever recorded was named Snowball. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, it lived for a remarkable 14 years and 10.5 months!

Dying in February 1979, this wise old pig lived through some remarkable moments in history from the signing of the 1964 Civil Rights Act to the birth of the first ‘test-tube’ baby in 1978. However, it’s not known if news of these great happenings ever spread to his hutch in rural Nottinghamshire.

Since then, many others have tried to take Snowball’s crown come the turn of the century.

A Grimsby guinea named Bear, who was 14, almost took the World Record, being just months off the title before passing away.

And the owner of an Australian guinea named Sweetie believes the record was broken a long time ago. Sweetie’s owner claims the seriously old Guinea Pig lived between October 1996 and June 2014, which is an astonishing 17 years and 8 months.

However, it’s thought that record keepers were never able to correctly determine his exact age, and so Snowball remains the world’s wisest piggy.

How to give your guinea pig a long life

There are several things you can do to best care for your little guinea, giving them the best chance of living a long fruitful life.

Diet & exercise

Just like humans, a good diet and exercise can help fend off disease and illness in guinea pigs and is the key to a long-lasting life.

To provide sufficient exercise, you need to make sure your guinea has a large enclosure that offers them plenty of space to run around and play. This can be encouraged with tunnels and stimulating toys.

As for diet, guinea’s need high-quality grass and hay for digestion as well as plenty of vitamin-C rich foods. So try and give them a balanced diet of hay, pellets and fresh veg!

As an example, the previously mentioned 14-year-old Bear lived on a diet of Kale and was regularly taken for walks by his owner. There’s no denying these things had a huge impact on Bear’s health and wellbeing, and so you should look to provide the same level of care. Although we still can’t promise your own piggy will live quite as long as that!

Social interaction

Guinea pigs are very social creatures and not only do they need to spend lots of time with you, but they also need a bonded cagemate! This prevents them from getting lonely, depressed or bored, which are things all bound to have a negative effect on their health and lifespan.

Healthcare

Sometimes medical issues are out of our control, but they are measures you can take to best prevent your pet from becoming ill.

The easiest way to do this is by creating a healthy environment and promoting good hygiene by regularly cleaning their living area. You should also be in contact with an exotic vet to ensure that you can seek advice or medical help should the need ever arise.

The post How Long Do Guinea Pigs Live? appeared first on Petz.

How Much Does a Hamster Cost to Buy?

Adoption from rescue centres like the RSPCA is often free or charges a small rehoming fee (£5-15). Always check local shelters before buying from a pet shop.

Full Setup Cost Breakdown

Important: The RSPCA recommends a minimum cage size of 80cm × 50cm × 35cm for Syrian hamsters. Many budget cages sold in UK pet shops fall below this standard. Investing in a larger enclosure from the start prevents behavioural problems like bar-chewing and stress.

Monthly Running Costs

Vet Costs for Hamsters in the UK

Hamsters are classified as exotic animals by UK vets, meaning consultations and treatments are typically more expensive than for dogs or cats. Not all veterinary practices treat hamsters, so find an exotic-experienced vet before you need one.

Hamster insurance is available in the UK (from around £3-5/month) but many owners prefer to self-insure by setting aside £10-20 monthly into a dedicated savings pot. Given the average hamster lifespan of 2-3 years, this approach often works out cheaper.

Total Cost of Owning a Hamster Over Its Lifetime

Money-Saving Tips

• DIY bin cage — A large plastic storage bin (80-100L) with ventilation holes cut in the lid costs around £20-30 and exceeds minimum size requirements.
• Cardboard enrichment — Toilet roll tubes, egg cartons, and small boxes make excellent free toys and tunnels.
• Buy bedding in bulk — Purchasing 30-50L bags of Kaytee Clean & Cozy or Carefresh online saves 30-40% versus pet shop prices.
• Adopt, don’t shop — Rescue hamsters often come with basic supplies included.

FAQs

Are hamsters cheap to keep?

Hamsters are often marketed as “cheap pets” but responsible ownership costs £25-50 per month in the UK. The initial setup (especially a proper-sized cage) is the biggest expense. However, compared to dogs (£100-200/month) or cats (£50-100/month), hamsters are significantly less expensive to maintain.

How much does a hamster cage cost in the UK?

A suitable hamster cage in the UK ranges from £30 (DIY bin cage) to £250+ (large glass terrariums like the IKEA Detolf conversion). The RSPCA-recommended minimum of 80×50cm eliminates most budget cages under £50. Budget around £70-100 for a quality mid-range cage.

Do hamsters need vet check-ups?

Annual check-ups aren’t strictly necessary for healthy hamsters, but having a relationship with an exotic vet is essential for emergencies. Wet tail, respiratory infections, and tumours are common hamster health issues that require professional treatment. Budget £10-20/month into a vet fund.

The post How Much Does a Hamster Cost UK 2026? Full Setup & Monthly Expenses appeared first on Petz.

Some parts of a house rabbit’s diet are available to buy in shops, online or in supermarkets but there are other parts which you will have to source yourself, so some preparation and knowledge are essential to arm your rabbit with the best diet.

A rabbit’s diet should be made up of:

• 85% hay or grass
• 10% leafy green vegetables
• 5% pellets or nuggets (or slightly more if they are large in size)

If you do feed them more nuggets, you may have to cut down on their hay or vegetable consumption slightly to make up for this. It is also worth bearing in mind that particular breeds or diets may require slight adjustments which should always be discussed with a rabbit-friendly vet.

Water

As with all animals, a rabbit needs access to fresh clean water 24/7. This can be given to them in a drip-feed bottle attached to their cage/hutch, or in a bowl, but they do tend to prefer the latter. It is more natural.

Ensure it is heavy, such as ceramic, so they can’t tip it over. Also check for any algae, ice, dead insects and that it is accessible at all times (drip-feed bottles can become clogged). Change the water daily.

Rabbits that eat more hay can need more water than those which eat a good portion of greens as well. Always monitor your rabbit’s water consumption to ensure there is nothing wrong, as they need fluids to ensure dry food can move through the gut, and so they can get rid of excess calcium.

Hay

Did you know that a rabbit needs to eat one bundle of good quality hay per day? Did you also know that this bundle needs to be as big as them?!

This will be the main bulk of their food. It can’t be what they use for their toilet, so needs to be dust-free/sweet smelling/slightly green with long strands.

Grass hay such as Timothy or meadow is good for adults, and younger/pregnant/nursing rabbits can be fed on this as well as a bit of legume hay (like alfalfa or clover). These are higher in calcium for that extra bit of bone growth they need but long-term feeding causes kidney issues.

Ideally, they should also have access to fresh growing grass. Never feed them freshly cut grass, as this is already breaking down once it is cut which could make your bunny ill.

Leafy Greens

Which greens can rabbits eat?

A handful of washed, fresh vegetables, weeds and herbs every day is good for them. You should give them a wide variety, perhaps a mix of about six different types with every handful.

Good choices include cabbage, kale, broccoli, parsley and mint. If you want to try them on something new, introduce this slowly and gradually so they don’t get an upset stomach.

Have a look at some other rabbit-friendly greens, many of which can be bought in the supermarket or grown in your garden.

In the wild, their food can be limited, but if it is green and unless it tastes really bad to them, they will probably still eat it. This is why it is imperative to stick to the foods on this list. You can read more at the end of the article about what rabbits need to avoid.

Pellets

Around 25g of pellets or nuggets per kilogram of your rabbit’s weight should be enough every day. The average medium rabbit is about 2kg, so this will mean 50g in total.

You should always be aware of your rabbit’s weight, so you can keep an eye on any issues and be sure not to over or underfeed them.

Treats

All pets deserve a bit of love in the form of a treat every so often. Whether they have just been to the toilet in the correct place or they are showing affection, a rabbit is no different.

This is where the carrots can come in, as well as apples, but this must be given in small portions. Do not give them any other treats, such as bits of biscuit, other fruit and vegetables or human foods, as this could really harm them.

Blueberries, papaya, strawberries, pears, peaches, plums or melon are also fine, but sugary items such as banana, grapes and raisins should be limited and completely avoided if you don’t know how much is enough.

Rabbit Feeding Tips

Making Meal Time Interesting

Try stuffing their hay into toilet roll tubes or boxes with their pellets, so they have to forage slightly to get to what they want. They can also be scattered throughout their bedding hay. This provides them with a bit of mental stimulation.

Young, Pregnant and Nursing Rabbits

These will require slightly different foods, such as more protein content. You may need to introduce formulas, and boost their portion sizes without going overboard.

These changes may be particular to breed, the size of your rabbit and your rabbit’s current diet and health status, so you should ask your vet if you are unsure.

Rabbits and Calcium

Why is it so vital to stick to portion sizes and food types? Not only will it prevent weight issues and toxic consumption, but it will also limit their calcium intake.

Calcium is vital for bone and teeth growth and strength, but too much can be very bad news. A medium rabbit needs around 510 milligrams per day, but their daily hay, pellet or vegetable intake can take them over this.

Their bodies absorb every but of calcium, unlike humans. What they don’t need will pass out in their urine, but if they are given too much they could have difficulty removing this which can cause kidney issues or bladder sludge. This links back to why water is so important for them, as it keeps everything moving.

What Rabbits Should NOT Eat

As mentioned above, stick to leafy greens and a little bit of carrot or apple every day.

Some of the most common foods and greens that could be toxic to your rabbit include iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, corn, potatoes, peas, onions and seeds/grains. These should be kept on human plates only, and composted or thrown away if they will be wasted as opposed to being fed to the rabbits.

Any plants which grow from a bulb, buttercups, poppy, ivy and privet, are all common in gardens but very dangerous. If you give your rabbit time in the garden, never allow them to access these.

House plants are also toxic, so while you may not set out for them to eat those leaves, always keep them out of reach.

If you go out foraging for your rabbit’s food, beware of wild garlic, cowslip, nightshade, hemlock and wood sorrel which could easily be picked up along with safe foods and mixed in together. This is why it is best to perhaps buy greens if you don’t know what to look out for.

The post Eating Guide: Rabbits appeared first on Petz.

Space Requirements — The Non-Negotiable Starting Point

The RSPCA and Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund (RWAF) minimum for a pair of average-sized rabbits: 3 metres × 2 metres × 1 metre high, with 24-hour access. This represents the lowest acceptable threshold — experienced rabbit welfare advocates recommend significantly more. Free-roaming in a fully rabbit-proofed room or rooms is the gold standard.

Rabbit-Proofing Your Home — Essential Checklist

• ✅ Electrical cables — the single biggest hazard. Use cable management covers, spiral wraps, or conceal cables completely behind furniture. A rabbit chewing a live mains cable causes electrocution and death — this is not a rare accident
• ✅ Toxic plants — common UK houseplants toxic to rabbits include: aloe vera, ivy, lilies (extremely toxic), daffodil bulbs, foxglove, rhododendron, and yew. Check RWAF’s plant list before allowing outdoor garden access
• ✅ Gaps behind furniture — rabbits wedge themselves into impossibly small spaces and can become trapped
• ✅ Stairs — a rabbit falling down stairs risks severe spinal injury (their skeletons are fragile relative to their muscle strength)
• ✅ Other pets — even a “gentle” cat or dog can fatally injure a rabbit through stress alone (a rabbit pursued by a predator animal can die of cardiac arrest without physical contact). Supervised, calm introductions only

Diet — The 80:15:5 Rule

Why muesli mixes are harmful: A 2011 University of Edinburgh study found rabbits fed muesli-style diets had significantly higher rates of dental disease, obesity, and caecotroph accumulation compared to hay-fed rabbits. Muesli mixes remain widely sold in UK pet shops but should be avoided entirely.

Why Rabbits Must Be Kept in Pairs

All UK welfare organisations (RSPCA, Blue Cross, RWAF, PDSA) are unambiguous: rabbits are highly social animals that suffer significantly when kept alone. A lone rabbit denied rabbit companionship is a rabbit under constant welfare compromise. Signs of loneliness and stress in a single rabbit: excessive grooming, hair loss, stereotypic behaviours, persistent attempts to interact with their owner as a surrogate, and depression. Rabbits should be kept in bonded pairs (neutered male + neutered female is the most reliably compatible combination) at minimum.

Neutering — Not Optional

• Female rabbits (does): Unspayed does have an ~80% risk of uterine cancer by age 5. Spaying dramatically reduces this and also prevents false pregnancies and aggression. Spaying is recommended from 4–6 months
• Male rabbits (bucks): Neutering reduces territorial behaviour, spraying, and humping, and is required before any introduction to a female (even a spayed female)

Signs of Illness — Rabbits Hide Pain

Rabbits are prey animals and conceal illness as long as possible. By the time a rabbit appears “off colour” to most owners, it is often significantly unwell. Seek veterinary advice promptly for:

• 🔴 Not eating hay or food for more than 2–4 hours — GI stasis is a life-threatening emergency
• 🔴 No faecal pellets produced for more than 4–6 hours
• 🔴 Head tilt — indicates inner ear infection or E. cuniculi (a parasitic infection common in UK rabbits)
• 🔴 Runny nose or eyes — upper respiratory infection
• 🔴 Teeth grinding (bruxism) — indicates pain
• 🟠 Weight loss (weigh monthly with kitchen scales)
• 🟠 Reduced activity or hiding more than usual

FAQs

How long do indoor rabbits live?

Well-cared-for indoor rabbits live 8–12 years, with some reaching 14+. This is a significant commitment greater than many people expect when acquiring rabbits. Dental disease (from inadequate hay) and GI problems are the most common life-limiting conditions in UK house rabbits — both are largely preventable through correct diet and welfare management.

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Related Reading

• indoor rabbit cages

The post Guide to Indoor Rabbits UK 2026: Housing, Diet, Bonding & Welfare Essentials appeared first on Petz.