The Vitamin C Requirement

Guinea pigs, like humans, cannot produce their own Vitamin C. Deficiency causes scurvy — swollen joints, lethargy, poor coat, weight loss, difficulty walking, and increased infection susceptibility.

• Adults need 10–20mg daily; pregnant guinea pigs need 30–40mg
• Best dietary sources: bell peppers (red and green), parsley, kale, spring greens, pak choi
• Vitamin C in pellets degrades quickly — don’t rely on it as the sole source
• Do NOT add Vitamin C to water — it breaks down rapidly when exposed to light and air

Must Live in Pairs or Groups

Guinea pigs are herd animals and must never be kept alone. Reputable rescues will not rehome a single guinea pig. The best pairing is two neutered males or two females. Bond on neutral territory with multiple hideaways.

Housing

• Minimum cage: 120cm × 60cm for two guinea pigs — but bigger is always better
• Smooth-bottomed (no wire) to prevent bumblefoot
• Added levels do not substitute for floor space — guinea pigs are not climbers
• Indoor housing preferred (temperature control, predator protection, easier interaction)

Diet — 80–90% Hay

• Unlimited Timothy Hay — essential for digestion and dental wear
• Daily cup of Vitamin C-rich fresh vegetables
• Small amount of guinea pig pellets (one eggcup/20g per pig per day)
• Fresh water always available (bottle with sipper tube, changed daily)

FAQs

What are the most common guinea pig health problems?

The 2024 RVC study found that the most common issues in UK guinea pigs are: overgrown nails (affecting over 25% annually — regular trims essential), ringworm (fungal skin infection), eye ulcers (often from hay poking), dental disease (insufficient hay causes tooth overgrowth), respiratory infections (URIs — can be fatal if untreated), and bumblefoot (painful foot sores from wire cage floors or lack of exercise). Most of these are preventable with proper husbandry, diet, and housing.

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But a guinea pig‘s nails should be trimmed once per month. This is more frequent than in dogs, cats or any other pet. If their nails are not looked after, it could result in a curvature of the claws. This means they could eventually grow into the footpad, making it impossible to walk and causing pain.

Open wounds on a guinea pig‘s foot can lead to bumblefoot as well. This is a potentially fatal infection. So, trimming your guinea pig‘s claws isn’t just going to make them more comfortable, but will also limit their risk of disease. You also need to keep their living quarters clean.

When cutting a guinea pig‘s nails, you need to help them feel comfortable. Most people will do this by sitting the guinea pig on their lap and holding them securely so they don’t move and can’t flinch. But if your guinea pig isn’t keen on being handled, you will want to do this how best you see fit.

Where to cut a guinea pig nail

If you are familiar with cutting the nails of dogs and cats, you will have heard of a term called ‘the quick’. This is a blood vessel which runs through an animal’s claw. It doesn’t go right the way through, though.

So, you need to take enough off the claw to make a difference yet not enough to cut the quick. If you are nervous about this, have some styptic powder to hand. Some of this applied to a claw will stop the bleeding.

Most guinea pig nails are actually translucent, so you can spot the quick easily. This can actually make it a lot easier than cutting the nails of a dog, which is why it can be done at home rather than by a groomer or vet.

If your pet’s nails are black, shining a light underneath may give you a rough guide as to where the quick is. It will be darker and central within the claw.

How to trim a guinea pig’s nails

You will need:

• Small animal nail trimmers
• Styptic powder
• Treats
• Paper towel

The treats will act as a distraction and reward. Pick their favourite treats; if they love a certain fresh vegetable but it is limited in their diet, save it until this time of the week! A paper towel will wipe up any excess blood.

Step 1: Hold on to your guinea pig

Don’t squeeze too tight but they need to be secure. If they don’t usually like being picked up, sit on the floor and let them come to you first. Have them on your lap or on a table; their bottom needs to be secure. The treats come in handy here!

Step 2: Start cutting

Gently pick up a leg and secure it. Then, cut their first claw. If they struggle at any point, allow them to relax before continuing.

If all goes well, continue until all claws are cut.

Step 3: Reward

They need to know that what they have been through is a) necessary and b) doesn’t cause them harm. Rewarding them will make it more appealing next time. This is called positive reinforcement.

What to do if you can’t cut your guinea pig’s nails

Never just leave it – as mentioned, it can cause infection if the claws start to curve. Ask your vet how best to go about this. They may even say to just bring your guinea pig into the practice every month to have this done. It should only take a few minutes.

It shouldn’t be too expensive, either. Or, ask around local groomers to see if they’d be happy to do this service. Check they’re used to working with small animals first, though.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I Trim Your Guinea Pig’s Nails?

Guinea pig nails need regular trimming. This can be surprising for any new owners; it isn’t common to need to trim the nails of a small pet. But a guinea pig’s nails should be trimmed once per month. This is more frequent than in dogs, cats or any other pet. If their nails are not looked after, i…

What should I know about Where to cut a guinea pig nail?

If you are familiar with cutting the nails of dogs and cats, you will have heard of a term called ‘the quick’. This is a blood vessel which runs through an animal’s claw. It doesn’t go right the way through, though. So, you need to take enough off the claw to make a difference yet not enough to cut the quick. If you are nervous about this, have some styptic powder to hand. Some of this applied …

The post How to Trim Your Guinea Pig’s Nails appeared first on Petz.

If you’re ever in doubt, it’s a good idea to think about whether the food is in the guinea pig‘s natural habitat and is it something they’d be able to just find. For example, guinea pigs are more likely to eat leafy greens and grass rather than buried bulb vegetables, seeds and dairy.

We also have an in-depth guinea pig care guide in case you’re unsure about any other aspects of caring for your domestic cavy.

The foods your guinea pig should avoid

Since we understand that food in their natural environment is not always clear cut, below are the foods to definitely avoid.

1. Dairy

Guinea pigs are herbivores, so basically eat a vegan diet. Their teeth or digestive enzymes cannot break down these foods, and this can lead to severe digestive issues. A definite no, with no exceptions.

2. Cereal, Seeds, Oats

It’s advised not to give guinea pigs cereal because they often contain sugar. Even if they are marketed as low in sugar, seeds and grains are generally not good for guinea pigs simply because it leads to weight gain and dental difficulties. There’s also a risk that piggies can choke on larger seeds.

While oats are healthy for humans, they’re not too great for our little friends since they contain a lot of phosphorus that can damage their urinary systems. Oats are also full of carbohydrates which isn’t ideal for little piggies.

Another thing to avoid is the seeds and stones of fruits such as apples, peaches and cherries. Many contain cyanide, which can cause heart and nervous system failure.

3. Nightshades

We imagine you’ve already heard of the infamous nightshade family. The difference between nightshades and regular vegetables is that nightshades have levels of solanine in them, which is poisonous to guinea pigs and can cause fits, seizures and heart failure – pretty serious stuff, we know.

Not all nightshades are bad for guinea pigs, but those which definitely are include:

• Potatoes
• Aubergine
• Goji berries
• Blueberries

Tomatoes are a nightshade, but their skins are safe in small doses and a great source of vitamin C. It is the stems and leaves you need to avoid.

The same applies to peppers. They’re safe, but remove the seeds due to bitterness and choking hazards.

4. Avocados

Various other vegetables are harmful to guinea pigs too, including avocados, which are not ideal because of the fat content alone.

Additionally, they also contain persin, which is harmful to a lot of pets and can lead to vomiting, diarrhoea and shortness of breath. Something for pretty much all pets to avoid, so when you’re mashing it for your toast, ensure they can’t access it.

5. Bulb Allium Vegetables

Bulb allium vegetables, including onions, leeks, chives and garlic, are also incredibly toxic to guinea pigs since it’s difficult for them to digest. They also contain thiosulfate, which can cause haemolytic anaemia, damaging red blood cells and negatively affect their breathing.

Most guinea pigs are instinctively wary of these foods, so won’t go near them. But it isn’t worth taking a risk. Again though, all pets should be avoiding these, so also think about whether they are ingredients in any other foods.

6. Iceberg Lettuce

Surprising we know, but iceberg lettuce isn’t all that great for guinea pigs. While it is technically safe for them to eat, since it’s high in water it can cause bloating and diarrhoea, which may lead to dehydration. It is also very high in calcium and too much of this is bad for piggies since it can lead to kidney stones.

Iceberg is also low in vitamin C, which is a vital component in a healthy guinea pig diet, so it is wasted calories on them.

You can still feed your guinea pig small amounts of lettuce, but romaine lettuce is better as a treat because it has less calcium and more vitamin C, making it a much healthier option.

7. Beans

The majority of beans are incredibly gassy and so can cause discomfort for your piggies. If you’re looking to switch up your piggies diet, consider green beans as a treat now and again.

Green beans contain calcium, which isn’t good for piggies in large amounts, but they are rich in vitamin C, so giving green beans as an occasional treat will be fine.

8. Rhubarb

Rhubarb has many toxins in it; it’s too high in calcium, contains phosphorus, and is high in oxalic acid, which reduces mineral absorption and can lead to kidney stones. For this reason, it’s really not a good idea to feed your guinea pig rhubarb.

So – what can my guinea pig eat?

There are foods made especially for guinea pigs kept as pets.

A key element of their diet is good quality hay, such as Timothy hay. A vital part of their diet, hay contains fibre for good digestion. For this reason, it should be available at all times.

Did you know? A guinea pig’s teeth also grow continuously, so they need to chew on hay to grind them down

Commercial guinea pig food is specially made to include all of the nutrients and goodness your piggy requires. The food should be in pellet form, and approved by vets, from a trusted manufacturer.

Vegetables should be limited to one cup per day. Introduce new foods one by one. Ideally, look for great quality organic greens such as:

• Romaine lettuce
• Carrots and tops
• Peas
• Broccoli spears
• Cucumber
• Spinach
• Kale
• Tomatoes (without green parts or stems)
• Green and red peppers

Small, bite-sized pieces of fruit can also be given daily. Never give them much, as they are high in sugar. But they make a great treat. Safe fruits include:

• Oranges
• Apples
• Pears
• Strawberries
• Blueberries
• Kiwi

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most important thing to know about 8 Foods That Guinea Pigs Shouldn’t Eat?

Since chewing is pretty much a guinea pig’s favourite past-time, these little guys would be able to eat their way through anything. And while there’s a lot on the menu that they can eat, there are a few dishes that should be completely avoided. If you’re ever in doubt, it’s a good idea to think a…

The foods your guinea pig should avoid?

Since chewing is pretty much a guinea pig’s favourite past-time, these little guys would be able to eat their way through anything. And while there’s a lot on the menu that they can eat, there are a few dishes that should be completely avoided. If you’re ever in doubt, it’s a good idea to think about whether the food is in the guinea pig’s natural habitat and is it something they’d be able to j…

So – what can my guinea pig eat?

Since chewing is pretty much a guinea pig’s favourite past-time, these little guys would be able to eat their way through anything. And while there’s a lot on the menu that they can eat, there are a few dishes that should be completely avoided. If you’re ever in doubt, it’s a good idea to think about whether the food is in the guinea pig’s natural habitat and is it something they’d be able to j…

The post 8 Foods That Guinea Pigs Shouldn’t Eat appeared first on Petz.

How often should I clean my guinea pig cage?

The entire cage should be completely deep-cleaned once a week. To do this, your guinea pig will have to go somewhere safe and they will need clean and dry bedding. Spot cleaning needs to be done every day to avoid harmful bacteria spreading and a strong smell developing. It will also prevent them from spreading poo around the rest of the pen and will prevent the cage from getting damp in certain spots.

What does cleaning a guinea pig cage involve?

If you are spot cleaning their cage, you need to remove their soiled bedding and litter with a scoop. Check where they relax, in corners and in hidden areas in case you miss anything. You will also need to remove any uneaten food, check for food that has been moved and change their water. During a deep clean, you will need to:

1. Remove all bedding and litter, even if it looks clean, and properly dispose of it
2. Wash all accessories and hideouts in their cage
3. Wash any fabric items, such as toys
4. Use a pet-safe disinfectant to wipe down all areas, including the floor and walls
5. Replace the litter and bedding
6. Ensure all accessories are dry before replacing
7. Remove any bowls and water bottles, deep cleaning these too – don’t forget drinking spouts and inside bottles

What do I need to clean my guinea pig cage?

1. Somewhere safe where you can put your piggies while you clean
2. Fresh bedding
3. Fresh pee pads or litter
4. Cleaning products that are going to be safe to use around your guinea pigs
5. Clean cloths to wipe everything down with as well as a clean, old towel to dry it all afterwards

What products should I use to clean a guinea pig cage?

It sounds obvious, but it needs to be clarified that you should use guinea pig-safe cleaning products. Guinea pigs are not like cats and dogs, and many products will be too harsh and potentially toxic to them. You can buy specialised cleaning products, designed for small animals, that can be used on their bowls and toys. Places like Pets At Home, Zooplus, Viovet, or Amazon will provide these products; just always make sure they say it’s okay to use on food-related toys and accessories before buying. Watered down distilled white vinegar is also used by many, although be sure to remove any residue to prevent a strong smell. Many people ask if Clorox wipes are okay to clean the coroplast at the bottom of the cage, and the consensus is that they are; however, we wouldn’t recommend using it on anything else. It’s important to stress that products, including Lysol, are not safe to use, nor are any regular household products. Always thoroughly rinse everything down with cold water when clean. This removes residue and that cleaning smell.

How to make cleaning less stressful for guinea pigs

The whole cleaning process can be a little stressful for guinea pigs, which is understandable. They need to be moved to somewhere like a run or spare cage, which can be upsetting. You should use this place regularly. So, when deep cleaning, always use the same cage. They will only be in there for around one or two hours, so you may wish to keep some toys or used bedding aside for this cage until they are back in their permanent home. Then, of course, clean this spare home too. When you’re cleaning their cage, you need to make sure the temporary home is secure. Ideally, it’s better to place them in a playpen where they have space to run about, and you can put a few of their favourite things in to occupy them. However, if this isn’t an option, a large cardboard box will work or any kind of secure pet carrier – just make sure there is enough space and that they can still see you in order to ease any anxiety.

And that’s how you clean your guinea pigs’ cage. A clean home; a happy guinea pig! So all that’s left is to grab your rubber gloves and scrub away!

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Normal Guinea Pig Behaviour

While there may be some things that your guinea pig does that look strange, a lot of it is actually perfectly normal.

1. Sleeping with their eyes open

Guinea pigs are prey animals, so they have to be alert and ready to move at a moment’s notice. This often means that they sleep lightly, so lightly in fact that their eyes stay open. It’s pretty normal and even though it looks a bit weird, it’s nothing to worry about.

2. Eating their poo

Despite it being rather disgusting, guinea pigs do eat their own poo, and it’s pretty common. It’s relatively healthy for them to do this since their faeces is still full of nutrients, and it’s nutrients that they haven’t managed to digest the first time around. But this isn’t to say you should allow their pen to become dirty and full of faeces – spot clean their cage every day.

3. Dragging their behind on the floor

Your guinea pig is doing this to mark their territory. This might happen if you’re placing them in a new cage, there is a new guinea pig, or you’ve just cleaned the cage. Don’t worry; this is perfectly normal, it just looks odd. It is a behaviour seen with other animals, too.

5. Jumping in the air (popcorning)

Generally, this is a behaviour that you want to see happening since it usually means they’re happy and excited. If they’re doing it all the time, however, they have a lot of excess energy so it might be a good idea to think about some additional toys and activities that they’ll enjoy.

6. Strange sounds

From purring and squeaking to wheeking and rumbling… guinea pigs make the strangest noises, and they’re often just expressing natural feelings that are a part of everyday guinea pig life such as excitement, annoyance and even seduction.

7. Chasing each other

In any pack of animals, there will always be a fight for dominance. More often than not, this is settled easily. Guinea pigs understand there is a hierarchy, and many are happy to fit within it. If chasing is occurring, this is a sign of dominance and happens in both males and females. It’s usually nothing to worry about, and unless there is real harm taking place (bullying, depriving others of food, wounds from biting), then it’s fine. If it’s occurring between a male and female, then it’s also a good idea to check that they’re definitely neutered – just to be on the safe side.

8. Peeing on other guinea pigs when annoyed

Like all families, guinea pigs annoy one another. But as a sign that they want the other guinea pig to back off, they can spray pee on one another. Yeah, it’s pretty gross but also pretty standard; it’s just their way of letting each other know they’re not in the mood.

9. Nipping

This one can get a little grey because excessive nipping can turn into bullying, and that’s not okay. However, the occasional nip is okay if one guinea pig needs to tell their fellow piggy to leave their food alone. Just watch out for how often it’s happening and whether it’s always the same guinea pig doing it.

10. Head raising with an open mouth

Once again, a sign of dominance, surprising, right? You wouldn’t think guinea pigs would be so narky given how cute they are, but yes, a lot of their behaviour is to display dominance in group situations. This is another case of it being perfectly fine and normal so long as it’s not occurring all the time.

Abnormal Guinea Pig Behaviour

1. Chewing the bars

Guinea pigs can chew everything in sight, but if they’re constantly chewing the bars of their cage, this could be a sign of frustration and boredom. Is their environment providing enough stimulation for them? They should:

• always have a fellow guinea pig with them
• have enough room, as you’ve followed the guidance on guinea pig cage sizing
• have accessories and toys for mental stimulation

2. Lack of movement

If your guinea pig is lethargic and reluctant to move or is often crouched in a hunched position, then this is a sign that something is wrong. Guinea pigs are usually social and active, so if they’re not exploring the area a lot, this could be a sign of illness, pain, depression or anxiety.

3. Change in eating, drinking and toilet habits

If you have noticed that your guinea pig is eating less, drinking less or drinking much more, then this is a sign something is up. It could be illness-related, depression-related, or another guinea pig could be bullying them. If you’ve noticed a change in their diet, then it’s essential to take them to see a vet. The same goes for their toilet habits, such as diarrhoea or a complete lack of urination and poo. Weigh your guinea pigs weekly, so a change in weight is easy to spot.

4. Repeated circling of their enclosure or overgrooming

These are signs of stress which could be down to illness, frustration, boredom, loneliness, or bullying from another guinea pig. It’s important to monitor these behaviours along with other warning signs mentioned. If it continues, you should look at changing something in their environment or monitoring the interactions between your piggies. It’s best to speak to your vet if it still carries on.

5. Freezing or fidgeting when you’re handling them

If a guinea pig feels safe and relaxed around you, they’ll usually lie down, stretch out and settle calmly. If they’re stiff or constantly trying to get away, as you’ve guessed it, they’re scared and uncomfortable. Try being calm, gentle and quiet around your pig, and let them get used to being around you before you pick them up.

6. Frequent fighting

The occasional push is okay; after all, there will always be a dominant guinea pig. However, when this turns to biting and rolling around, then it’s harmful and abnormal group behaviour. If it’s the same two guinea pigs, then you may need to split them up. Excessive biting is also a sign that a guinea pig may be in pain, especially if they’re biting you too.

7. Shrieking  and excessive teeth chattering

These are the noises that definitely aren’t normal. Excessive shrieking and teeth chattering are signs of a very agitated guinea pig. Shrieking is a high pitched noise that usually means your guinea pig is upset or distressed about something. Excessive teeth chattering is a sign of irritation and aggression so you may want to consider if you’re handling your guinea pig in a stressful way or if their environment is causing anxiety. Do they have enough space away from other guinea pigs? Is there enough to stimulate them in the cage?

8. Spending a lot of time hiding

It’s natural for guinea pigs to enjoy hiding; it’s instinct to get away from predators. But like with all behaviours, moderation is key. If your guinea pig pretty much refuses to come out from hiding, then you can incur that they’re in pain, or they feel threatened by their environment. This requires looking at ways to make your guinea pig feel safer and calmer as well as looking at the way they interact with other guinea pigs, and again, it may also be worth paying a visit to the vets.

Final Note

If you want to know more about your guinea pig then check out our guinea pig care guide. And as always, if you’re concerned about any strange behaviour that your guinea pig is exhibiting then it’s always wise to talk to your vet about it. They will be able to give you a better understanding of how to resolve the problem in a specialised and in a way that’s tailored to your little buddy.

Related Reading

• How to Trim Your Guinea Pig’s Nails

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most important thing to know about Guinea Pig Behaviour: What You Need To Know?

Since we can’t speak our guinea pigs’ language, it’s not always easy to determine exactly what they’re feeling or why they’re behaving in a certain way. But that’s not to say that they don’t communicate and if you pay attention long enough, you’ll eventually master the art of unde…

What should I know about Normal Guinea Pig Behaviour?

Since we can’t speak our guinea pigs’ language, it’s not always easy to determine exactly what they’re feeling or why they’re behaving in a certain way. But that’s not to say that they don’t communicate and if you pay attention long enough, you’ll eventually master the art of understanding what your guinea pig’s behaviour means and how your guinea pig is feeling. To understand…

The post Guinea Pig Behaviour: What You Need To Know appeared first on Petz.

Safety first: Only use plain, untreated brown cardboard (no glossy print, glue, or stickers). Avoid anything with sharp edges, small removable parts, or toxic materials. Always supervise your guinea pig with new toys.

1. Toilet Roll Hay Dispenser

The classic DIY guinea pig toy. Stuff an empty toilet roll with Timothy hay and tuck the ends in loosely. Your guinea pig will push, pull, and gnaw at the roll to get the hay out. For extra challenge, cut small slits in the sides and poke hay strands through them. Replace daily as the cardboard gets soggy.

2. Cardboard Box Hideout

Cut one or two guinea pig-sized holes in the sides of a shoebox or small delivery box. Place it upside down in the cage with a handful of hay inside. Guinea pigs feel safest when they have a private hiding spot, and they’ll love nibbling the edges of the cardboard over time. Replace when it gets too chewed or damp.

3. Paper Bag Foraging Toy

Take a small brown paper bag (remove any handles), fill it with hay and scatter a few small treats (a slice of pepper, a sprig of parsley) inside. Scrunch the top loosely closed. Your guinea pig will rustle, push, and tear at the bag to find the hidden goodies. This mimics natural foraging behaviour and provides great mental stimulation.

4. Tunnel System

Connect several large cardboard tubes (paper towel rolls work, or ask at a carpet shop for the wider centre tubes) end to end with gaps between them. Guinea pigs love running through tunnels — it satisfies their prey-animal instinct to have covered pathways. Ensure all tube diameters are at least 12cm wide so no piggy gets stuck.

5. Herb Garden Platter

Arrange a selection of guinea pig-safe herbs on a plate or in a shallow dish — parsley, coriander, basil, dill, and mint are all safe and loved. This acts as both a foraging enrichment activity and a nutritious supplement to their hay diet. A great way to use up herbs that are going past their best in your fridge.

6. Veggie Kebab

Thread chunks of bell pepper, cucumber, and carrot onto a wooden skewer (use an apple wood stick or untreated wooden dowel) and wedge it vertically between the cage bars. Guinea pigs will stretch up and nibble pieces off the stick, encouraging natural standing behavior. Remove the stick once the veg is eaten to avoid splinters.

7. Cardboard Maze

Cut and fold large cardboard boxes into a mini maze with dead ends, corridors, and open areas. Place treats at the end of some corridors. This is best used during supervised floor time outside the cage. Change the layout regularly so your guinea pigs don’t memorise the route — the novelty is what provides the enrichment.

8. Hay Sock

Take an old, clean cotton sock and stuff it with hay. Cut 3–4 small holes in the sides. Your guinea pig will pull hay through the holes, toss the sock around, and generally have a great time rummaging. Use a sock without elastic or silicone grips, and replace it when it gets chewed through.

9. Digging Box

Fill a shallow plastic container (a cat litter tray works perfectly) with 2–3 inches of shredded recycled paper or clean topsoil. Scatter treats, herb sprigs, and hay on top and mix them in. Guinea pigs will dig, burrow, and forage through the substrate — this mimics their natural grassland behaviour and provides excellent enrichment.

10. Apple Wood Chew Bundle

Gather a small bundle of apple, willow, or hazel twigs (ensure they’re from untreated, unsprayed trees) and tie them together with a short piece of natural jute string. Guinea pigs need to chew to wear down their continuously growing teeth, and safe wood chews are far better than plastic alternatives. Wash and dry the twigs before offering them.

Safe Wood for Guinea Pigs

How Often Should I Rotate Toys?

Guinea pigs benefit most from variety and novelty. Rotate 2–3 toys in and out of the cage every few days. This prevents boredom and keeps each toy interesting. Cardboard toys should be replaced as soon as they get soggy or heavily chewed. Wood chews can last weeks.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are toilet rolls safe for guinea pigs?

Yes — plain brown cardboard toilet rolls are safe for guinea pigs to chew and play with. Avoid rolls with printed patterns, glossy coatings, or glue residue. The small amount of cardboard they may ingest while chewing is harmless and will pass through their digestive system.

Can guinea pigs play with cat toys?

Most cat toys are not suitable for guinea pigs. Cat toys often contain small bells, feathers, catnip, or elastic strings that could be swallowed or cause entanglement. Stick to guinea pig-specific or homemade toys made from safe, natural materials.

What household items can guinea pigs play with?

Safe household items include plain cardboard boxes, toilet and paper towel rolls, brown paper bags (handles removed), clean cotton socks, and ceramic dishes for hay or herbs. Always ensure items are clean, untreated, and free from sharp edges, ink, or adhesives.

The post How To Make Homemade Guinea Pig Toys: 10 Easy DIY Ideas appeared first on Petz.

How many guinea pigs should I have?

• One neutered male and one or more females
• Two females
• Neutered brothers (if they’ve been reared together)
• A father-son/mother-daughter pairing

Do Guinea pigs fight?

How can I introduce guinea pigs?

Can I have a rabbit and a guinea pig together?

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Guinea pigs are actually very intelligent, too. When placed in mazes, guinea pigs have demonstrated that they’re able to recall pathways to food and hold onto these memories for months. And another study carried out suggests that guinea pigs are actually able to learn new lessons faster than other rodents.

So if guinea pigs are incredibly social and they’re actually rather clever, it makes sense that stimulation and engagement are vital for a happy and healthy guinea pig.

Knowing what toy your guinea pig will like to play with can be determined by how that toy fits every one of their needs. If you’re looking for new toys check out our round-up of the best Guinea Pig toys.

Guinea Pig Toy Needs

Need 1: Mental stimulation and socialising

Answer: Interacting and bonding games

Guinea pigs form bonds with their owners and become depressed if their owner isn’t present. Because they’re naturally social animals, guinea pigs need a lot of interaction to be happy, and this is something that people often don’t understand about them.

As a side note, it’s important to state that you should always have more than one guinea pig since they’re much happier in groups.

Returning to the interactive toys, you should try and find something you can do together. For example, using toys that allow you to hide food and treats within them so you can challenge your guinea pig to forage and search for their food while being there to praise them when they find the missing treat.

A ball that dispenses treats is also a good idea since your guinea pig will enjoy the attention they’ll be receiving from you as you roll it towards them, not to mention the reward they’ll receive when they manage to get the treat out of the ball.

Need 2: Exercise and adventure

Answer: Large cage and accessories

Guinea pigs are natural explorers and foragers, so they actually need quite a lot of space. Not only is it essential that you’ve provided ample space for them to run around, but it’s also good to have toys and accessories that make that space more engaging and adventurous.

• Tunnels – Not only do tunnels reflect their real habitat more, but it adds a greater sense of intrigue and will encourage them to explore the space more
• Toys – As well as joint play, they also need solo play. Homemade guinea pig toys are perfect, as you can hide treats inside
• Runs – All guinea pigs should also have a run outdoors, which is safe and gives them space to bask in natural light and fresh air

They must keep moving to keep healthy and happy.

Need 3: An outlet for excessive chewing

Answer: Chew toys and hay

It’s no exaggeration that guinea pigs will chew just about anything. Their teeth are evergrowing, so it’s an instinct for them to continue to gnaw and chew. Guinea pigs who are bored and don’t have any chew toys end up chewing the bars, which isn’t something we want.

So invest in some good chew toys. There are some great choices available in the form of houses, huts, mini vegetable patches, dinosaurs and large wooden carrots.

Or if you want to buy something more traditional, then try a chew ball – made from hay, dried grass or wood. These will also provide plenty of fun while your little piggie rolls it around.

Hay is also a must, so they can keep chewing on something safe when needed.

Need 4: Mental stimulation

Answer: Tricks and obstacle courses

We’ve already mentioned it many times, but try to help your guinea pig reach their full mental potential. A great way to encourage this is to try and teach your guinea pig new tricks or to try an obstacle course.

You can buy these from various places including Amazon or Etsy; otherwise, you can create your own by using cardboard boxes, toilet rolls (for tunnels), small plastic cups (to create a weave poll circuit) and two books and a pole to create a mini jump.

Naturally, treats will motivate your guinea pig to do the tricks, and of course, you will have to start small and build up the level of difficulty each time.

Need 5: New interactions

Answer: New toys

This isn’t to say you should be changing their environment all the time – because this would actually cause a lot of distress – however, your guinea pigs will benefit from having new toys or tunnels placed in their environment for something to pique their curiosity again.

This is why homemade toys are a great choice. Used loo rolls and paper bags can always come in handy…

Things to look out for

Material

It seems obvious, but you always have to check that the product specifies that it’s non-toxic or chew-safe. always remove anything which is being over chewed or is damaged.

Type of toy

If the toy is glued together, then check its pet-friendly glue or perhaps avoid it altogether.

Weaved balls also begin to unravel as your guinea pig chews away at them so it’s important to check that they don’t become something that your guinea pig can get tangled up in.

Space

While guinea pigs love dark and small hideouts, it’s also essential to check how accessible they really for your guinea pig. If your guinea pig looks like they’re struggling to get through space, you should take away that accessory. It’s not worth the risk of them getting stuck.

The post What Toys Do Guinea Pigs Like To Play With? appeared first on Petz.

Rabbit and Guinea Pig Reproduction

Guinea Pig Reproductive Diseases

Ovarian cysts

Dystocia

Rabbit Reproductive Diseases

Uterine cancer

Pseudopregnancy

Rabbit Syphilis

Take Home Message

Further Reading

You May Also Like

• Tackling Dog Obesity
• Caring for Recovering Pets
• Caring for Pets with Liver Disease
• Caring for Pets with Kidney Disease

The post Reproductive Problems In Rabbits And Guinea Pigs appeared first on Petz.

Although sensitive creatures, their adorable quirks have always been beloved by young children, and so many families choose to purchase one as a first pet for their child and an introduction to animals at home.

However, looking after one is far from child’s play, and there is quite a lot to learn before you purchase a new wee little squeaker!

Sadly, a lot of misinformation still exists about the care of guinea pigs, and so many new piggy owners are given the wrong advice when it comes looking after a fluffy friend.

So to help you avoid running into any issues, we’ve put together this in-depth, trustworthy guide, to clue you up on everything you need to know on guinea pig caregiving!

FACTFILE

• Lifespan: 4 to 8 years
• Average Height: 20 – 50 cm
• Average Weight: 850 – 1000 g
• Popular Breeds: Skinny (Hairless), Abyssinian, Teddy, Texel, America, Merino (Standard breed)
• Diet: Fresh Hay, Leafy Vegetables, Fruits, Guinea Pig Pellets
• Origin: South America

IMPORTANT THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW

Before you decide you really want a guinea pig, you need to consider these important caregiving factors:

• Guinea Pigs are social animals – They need to be paired up with one other piggy at least, as in the wild they can live with up to 10 others!
• Guinea Pigs can live up to 8 years (or more!) – Make sure you are prepared for a long commitment to your pet.
• Guinea Pigs need space – Your little pigs will need a lot of room, so make sure you have sufficient space in your house, garden or yard for keeping a cage or hutch with added runs.
• Guinea Pigs aren’t always quiet! – Although appearing quiet and unassuming, guinea pig squeals can occasionally stir up one heck of a racket! So if your neighbours are the unforgiving, complaining type, guinea pigs may not be the best idea.
• Guinea Pigs are sensitive – When moving into a new home, little pigs may be nervous or sensitive at the prospect of being handled. Adult owners and especially children must take care when handling them to ensure they become tamed quickly.
• They need lots of Vitamin C – Guinea Pigs are unable to manufacture their own Vitamin C and so need to be fed a diet rich in it as well as be given regular Vitamin C supplements.
• Your Guinea Pig may need neutering – If you’re planning on keeping male and female pigs in the same pen, you’ll need to have your male neutered to prevent unwanted babies. But beware, it can take up to four weeks for them to become sterile after the operation!
• They aren’t rabbits – Even though they both live in hutches, it is not a smart idea to house guinea pigs and rabbits together! Rabbits do not warm to guinea pigs and may well attack them or injure them if kept in the same enclosure.

WHERE TO BUY A GUINEA PIG

Once you’re sure guinea pigs really are the pet for you, your next question is probably where to buy one from. Thankfully, guinea pigs are a widely available animal and can be bought from many pet shops, breeders and rescue shelters.

We would recommend contacting local animal shelters first, as there’s no question that the best thing you could do is rehome some unwanted little guinea pigs!

If you’re looking for a specific rarer breed, your best bet is to go with a breeder who will likely have a lot of knowledge about the various breeds of guinea pigs and will hopefully have trained, tamed and treated them kindly if they are a responsible breeder.

However, you need to make sure that whoever you buy your guinea pigs from is reputable, and that they’ve housed the animal correctly before they come home with you.

This is because guinea pigs living in poor conditions could easily be carrying illness or infection, which would cause you and your family needless distress or grief should you purchase a suffering animal.

More commonly, they also may not have been separated properly by sex, which could mean a lot of breeding has occured, and you may be purchasing an already pregnant animal.

In regards to breeders and shelters, it’s unlikely they would raise or keep guinea pigs in conditions which would be detrimental to their health, but for certain pet shops who are housing tons of animals at one time – the same level of care potentially might not be given.

Therefore, when buying any guinea pig you should always ensure that you come and view their current premises first hand to check they are being given proper care, and you should avoid ever buying one blind over the internet!

When choosing your pigs, be sure to check the potential pets have been separated correctly by gender and that the seller actually knows how to correctly determine the sex of a pig.

Then observe whether they are being given clean water and food and that their habitats don’t appear dirty.

You obviously also want to be suspicious of any groups of guinea’s who look unwell or are too young to be in the care of a pet owner.

CHOOSING YOUR GUINEA PIG

Health

Before choosing your little pipsqueaks, you first need to make sure they are in good health and ready to be given a new home.

Healthy guinea pigs should have been bred and raised in a clean environment that has plenty of space, with good access to food and water. So if you’re witnessing anything other than that upon purchase from a seller, your alarm bells should already be ringing!

If you can, make sure you examine guinea pigs personally before making any firm decisions.

First, check the pig’s skin for any ominous lumps and bumps and make sure their coat is fluffy, smooth and free of bare patches. Then assess whether there are any weight issues, such as them being too fat or too skinny, and be sure to also observe their rear end for any signs of soiling or diarrhoea.

Although slightly more difficult to assess, you should also observe whether they’re teeth are overgrown and that it’s breathing is quiet and easy.

All in all, you want to pick piggies that are displaying an active attitude around the enclosure, moving around without stiffness or lameness. If possible, also try and single out squeakers who don’t seem anxious or upset by the approach or touch of humans.

However, even if your chosen guinea pigs appear fine, if they are sharing a cage with several others that appear to be in a sickly condition, it’s best not to take the gamble. Guinea Pig diseases are very contagious, and so it’s likely choosing a furball from the same hutch will only lead to a heartbreakingly similar fate.

Age

One of the main risks with buying guinea pigs is making sure you avoid purchasing one’s that are too young, which you won’t be able to look after properly.

Firstly, all female guinea pigs need to remain with their mothers until they are at least 4 weeks old. Opposingly males need to be separated from 3 weeks old as they become fertile and may get their siblings (and even their own mother!) pregnant from this age onwards. 

To be safe try and choose piglets that are at least 6 weeks old. This way, you will definitely know they are old enough to be separated from their mother, and that they have also had a few weeks to adapt and fend for themselves (sort of!).

Sex

We accept that some people want certain sexes of pig when looking for a pet and that many of you will also be looking to avoid the possibility of mating when pairing up piggies.

Thankfully, determining their sex is something you can probably work out yourself without the assessment of an expert, which comes in handy if you feel the seller perhaps isn’t quite as clued up as they should be!

Guinea Pigs don’t enjoy being picked up or being placed on their backs for long periods of time, so try and do your examination as quickly as possible, and consider rewarding and easing your pig’s cooperation with treats.

From a low height, preferably over a covered floor or table, hold your pig gently but firmly by the shoulders and chest, and cradle them onto their backs so their stomach and genital area are facing you.

From here, you’re looking to observe something called the anogenital distance (the distance between a guinea pig’s genitals and their anus).

The distance is much shorter in females and can be difficult to distinguish, whereas a male’s genital openings will be a few inches away from the anus.

To identify the genitals, examine the area above the anus. Females often have a smooth swelling over their genital area which should form a ‘Y’ shape. Males, on the other hand, should have a bulge in this area, due to its penis and testicles. If you’re not quite sure what you’re looking at, gently press the area above the genitals and you should see a penis protrude.

If you’ve already bought your pigs and are still not sure, or just aren’t comfortable perusing around such areas, have a specialised vet confirm the sex of your guinea pig for you!

Handling

Guinea pigs can form wonderful bonds with their owners, however, they can react nervously towards handling and definitely tolerate being picked up more than they actively enjoy it.

If you are going to pick up a guinea pig, do so with caution and care, as they have very delicate spines which can be damaged if not properly handled.

They should be kept upright, with their feet facing the floor and not be held too high in case they get skittish and try to jump out of your hands. Therefore it’s best to kneel or sit down when interacting with your piggies.

To pick them up properly, place one hand under their chest and use your other hand to support and lift their back legs. Make sure to also hold them close to your body for a more secure grasp.

Due to the level of care and attention needed to do this, we advise not letting very young children even attempt to pick up a guinea pig for fear they could drop them or hold them improperly.

It’s safer just to let them stroke their pet in a secure area, and feed them treats.

Breeds

In terms of personality or behaviour, there is not really much difference between the various guinea pig breeds.

So when choosing what breed you want, we would heartily suggest just opting a piggy that you think is the cutest looking!

However, be prepared to do more maintenance for pigs with long flowing hair, which can become quickly matted and tangled without regular brushing.

Hairless breeds like Baldwins and Skinny’s also tend not to fare well in sunlight due to the damage it can cause to their unprotected skin, often making them more suitable as an indoor pet!

ENVIRONMENT

Housing

Unfortunately, a hutch in the back garden stuffed full of guinea pigs just isn’t going to cut it when it comes to providing a piggy palace, and without sufficient space and room for stimulation, guinea pigs can develop plenty of behavioural and health problems.

Whether being kept outside or indoors, guinea pigs need an area which is quiet, ventilated, dry and draught-free. Crucially it needs to also be free from hazards such as bad weather conditions, poor temperatures and predators (which might include some of your other pets!)

Outdoor Housing

If outdoors, they need to be placed in a predator-proof hutch, preferably inside a weatherproof shed or structure that can protect it from prevailing winds and keep it out of direct sunlight. It should be raised slightly above ground level to prevent any accumulation of damp.

In the main, the hutch will provide them with a dark, enclosed area for sleeping or hiding in, while they will also need a run attached to the hutch, which will act as a kind of living enclosure to play and explore in.

Both the hutch and run should be large as possible, allowing your guinea pigs to have a space of their own away from their bonding partners should they so wish. As a rule of thumb, a hutch for two should be more than 1.2 m in length and 60 cm in width. The flooring outside should also be preferably grass or concrete to help keep pigs nails short.

Never keep your guinea pig hutch in a garage where vehicles are kept, as the fumes can be fatal!

Indoor Housing

One of the main reasons guinea pigs are kept outside is that they are very sensitive to loud noises, and so you should first ensure they are kept in an indoor environment that is away from loudspeaker systems or television sets.

They should also be kept away from sources of heat such as radiators and out of direct sunlight from sunny windows.

In terms of an enclosure, an indoor guinea pig will still need a living space such as a cage, vivarium or hutch that can provide them with a dark, enclosed spot for sleeping. However, this does not necessarily need a protective roof, as there is no weather or predators to watch out for (providing you’re not letting a dog or cat come and antagonise them!).

They also still need an attached indoor run area to exercise and play in, with solid flooring to help keep their nails short.

Entertainment & Exercise

Guinea Pigs don’t really respond to toys in the same way that a hamster or other rodent might, however, they have been known to enjoy hide-aways, tunnels and tubes.

Creating little obstacle courses in their runs can help keep them entertained and cardboard boxes can provide safe havens to hide in if they feel anxious.

It’s important to at a minimum have a large run for them to play and explore, as guinea pigs are active for 20 hours a day! This means they need plenty of stimulation to prevent boredom.

Bedding Materials

Keeping your guinea pigs comfortable and warm is paramount to their health and happiness and so you need to provide them with plenty of bedding within their sleeping areas.

It’s key that this bedding is absorbent so that it efficiently soaks up urine, and also that it is edible, as should your piggies accidentally chew or nibble on some, we don’t want it to be dangerous!

Popular bedding includes paper products, or more commonly used chipped, shredded, ground or pelleted materials. Try and avoid shredded or chipped softwood materials like pine as the natural chemicals within these types of wood can make guinea pigs ill.

Also never use fluffy bedding, as it can get caught on a pet’s limbs and won’t dissolve properly when eaten, causing digestive issues.

To correctly deck out your piggy shelter, line the bottom of the floor with old newspaper, before applying your chosen bedding. Then cover with lots of dust-free hay for extra warmth and a tasty snack to chew on!

In winter months, it’s crucial that even more bedding than usual is provided to keep guineas nice and toasty.

Temperature & Conditions

Just like any animal, guinea pigs don’t appreciate being very cold and the whole point of stuffing their hutch full of bedding and straw is to regulate the temperature as well as keep them soft and snug.

When temperatures outside drop to below 15°C, you may not be able to sufficiently heat their hutch up with extra bedding alone. Instead, consider moving them into a car-free garage or inside a shed to keep warm.

Temperature is far easier to regulate when you have indoor guinea pigs, as you should know what your room temperature roughly is by consulting your heating system.

17–20°C is the room temperature to aim for, ensuring your enclosure is not placed near to any radiators or heat sources.

Keeping Companions

As guinea pigs are social animals, it’s advised you keep them in at least a pair to prevent them becoming bored or depressed.

But how are you meant to go about choosing more than one new pet?

Well, the recommended pairings are one neutered male with a female or two females.

This is because if males haven’t been brought up as brothers in a litter together, there is a risk of fighting, although if they are both neutered this will be less likely to happen.

Females also generally aren’t ever spayed because it is a much more complicated procedure and so that is why most experts would recommend neutering any male you plan to pair with a female.

If you are introducing a new guinea pig to an existing piggy enclosure, you also need to proceed with a degree of caution.

Preferably, you should introduce guinea pigs to a new space all at the same time so that it is a new experience for all involved.

This is because guinea pigs already living together often form a natural order with some being more dominant than others. If you start introducing a lot of new pigs, it may upset higher ranking pigs should there no longer be enough room to hide, play or isolate away from others.

This can lead to the bullying of new and lower-ranked pigs.

It should also be noted that although guinea pigs and rabbits live in the same kinds of environment and are of similar builds, they should never be kept together. Rabbits can often bully or attack guinea pigs if put in the same enclosure, so we really wouldn’t recommend it!

Cleaning

A guinea pig’s hutch, cage or other form of living space needs to be cleaned regularly to prevent your piggy living in squalor and becoming ill!

You will need to do daily spot cleaning to ensure their enclosures are rid of soiled bedding and faeces and then will need to do a more thorough clean every 4 days.

Thankfully, pigs in large enclosures tend to be intelligent enough to urinate and defecate in one area of their hutch only, meaning the whole area does not become instantly soiled and makes daily cleaning easier.

When it comes to doing a full clean, you’ll obviously need to put your pigs in a safe enclosed area while you get to work. Ideally, you can just let them explore their run!

Then begin removing all of their bedding and hay to dispose of, making sure to hang onto any bedding or hay which is unsoiled.

This is because guinea pigs rely on smell and secretions of scents to communicate and so stripping their environment of their own recognisable scents can stress them out. So holding onto some unspoiled bedding to put back later can help prevent a sudden blitz of scents which might upset your pigs.

Then with a bucket of water and pet-friendly disinfectant, you need to get cleaning! (Don’t use ordinary house-cleaning materials, as these might harm your pet!)

Unfortunately, wooden hutches must be scrubbed with a good quality brush or old toothbrush and require a bit of elbow grease. However plastic cages will only require kitchen paper or a damp cloth. Simply spray the disinfectant around their living enclosure and get scrubbing!

Once you’ve given it your all, rinse off the area with your bucket of water and wait for it to dry.

When you are certain the area is completely dry, you can begin lining the cage and providing fresh bedding and straw, along with a decent helping of the previous week’s old bedding you’d held onto!

Then your little piggies are free to return to their fresh funhouse!

DIET

The ideal guinea pig diet should be based around some hearty helpings of grass hay, leafy veg and guinea pig pellets. It also goes without saying that your little pets will need constant access to clean drinking water, taking care to replace their bottle with fresh water every day.

Guinea pigs are herbivores, meaning they only eat plants, so don’t get any ideas about feeding them any meat products. Hay or grass should make up 80% of their diet, followed by guinea pig pellets and one teacup-sized amount of fresh greens per day.

Safe Fruit & Veg

While fruit and vegetables are obviously great choices of food for a guinea pig, some can cause an upset stomach and other various plants around your garden may actually be harmful.

So that you feel confident in the food you’re providing your piggy, consult this list of safe and suitable fruits and veg:

• Basil
• Broccoli
• Brussel Sprouts
• Cabbage
• Carrots and carrot tops ( high in sugar – moderate intake!)
• Cauliflower leaves and stalks
• Dill
• Kale
• Parsley
• Parsnip
• Radish
• Romaine lettuce
• Rocket
• Asparagus
• Celery
• Spinach
• Watercress
• Chicory
• Cucumber
• Dandelion (only small amounts – laxative qualities)

Essential Vitamin C Foods

Unfortunately, guinea pigs can’t make their own vitamin C, which means we have to help them out by providing some nutrient boosting foods!

Most reliable and efficient guinea pig pellets should advertise this fact on their packaging and will contain a suitable dose of vitamin C. However, be sure to always check the ingredients list and make sure the shelf-life is well in date to account for the fading of nutrient strength over time.

But if you’d prefer your little pipsqueaks to get their boost a little more naturally these foods are particularly rich in the world’s favourite vitamin:

• Asparagus
• Kale
• Spinach
• Asparagus
• Broccoli
• Tomatoes
• Peppers

If you’re worried you’re not supplying them with enough you could also add a pet-friendly vitamin C supplement to their drinking water.

Poo Eating – Is It Normal?

Occasionally you might spot your beloved piggy chowing down on a piece of their own poo, which naturally might make you recoil in horror?

Surely their faeces is dirty and unhealthy, otherwise, why would you have to clean their hutch out so much?!

Well, it turns out that this behaviour is actually totally normal, and strangely, even quite healthy for guinea pigs!

Guinea’s actually produce two types of poo, the hard dry pellet you scoop up during your daily spot clean, and a shiny, smelly pellet known as a caecotroph.

These special poos contain all of the goodness from their high fibre foods, and so when your guinea eats it, they’re simply re-digesting the healthy stuff!

Foods To Avoid

You’d be forgiven for thinking your guinea is fine to eat any fruits or veg you throw its way, but you need to be careful!

As previously stated, piglets are very sensitive creatures, both in personality and stomach, and there are a few foods you definitely shouldn’t feed them if you want to keep their teeth and guts healthy!

Muesli Mixes

Rodent muesli mixes are very popular, however, due to guinea pigs being very selective with their food, they have been known to ignore the healthy high in fibre parts of the mix and instead just opt to eat the bits that are high in sugar. This completely defeats the point of trying to give them a balanced diet and can cause teeth and weight issues in the long run.

Here’s a list of a few other things considered unhealthy or harmful for your little pipsqueak:

• Pickled food
• Crackers
• Pasta
• Chocolate
• Dairy products
• Cereals
• Grains
• Sugary Foods
• Sweets
• Biscuits
• Human foods (i.e bread)
• Rhubarb leaves
• Foxgloves, Daffodils, Lilies, Buttercups
• Mushrooms
• Potato tops
• Onions
• Avocado
• Oak (for chewing)
• Sweet peas
• Garden shrubs
• Nuts
• Seeds
• Dried beans
• Corn

HEALTH

As guinea pigs aren’t the most communicative of creatures, it can be incredibly difficult to spot whether they are suffering from pain or illness.

It’s therefore vital that you get to know your little guinea’s behaviour and can spot when something’s not quite right, as well as understand some of the symptoms you need to be looking out for if you suspect they are ill.

Guinea pigs can fall ill very quickly and so the best practice for preventing them from becoming seriously sick is to check them for illnesses or injury daily.

Common issues include vitamin C deficiency, respiratory issues, swollen or sore feet and UTIs.

Spotting Symptoms & Health Checklist

Watch out for any of these signs of illness on a daily basis to ensure your guinea is happy and healthy:

• Lack of eating or struggling to eat a normal amount
• Wet chin from drooling after eating
• Ensure eyes, ears and nose are free of discharge (normal for white eye discharge to be seen if a pig is grooming itself)
• Sore feet or red patches on the paws
• Incessant scratching of fur, rubbing of ear or shaking of head may indicate mites
• Heavy or laboured breathing, or odd gurgles and noises when respiring.
• Moving with a limp or stiffness
• Coat or skin in bad condition
• Overgrown toenails
• Blood in the urine or lack of urination
• Reduced droppings, or loose stools
• An unusual reduction or increase in their weight

Teeth

The teeth of a piglet never stop growing, which unfortunately means if they are not provided with sufficient food or items for chewing, their gnashers can become overly long.

This can result in a lot of pain and sometimes abscesses. They may also become misaligned or broken which can affect their ability to eat correctly.

Symptoms of teeth issues include lack of eating, dribbling and loss of weight. And of course – big teeth! You can check the size of their front fangs on a weekly basis by gently lifting the lip, but only a vet should observe their back teeth.

If you suspect they have teeth issues, only a vet will be able to correct them, so take them there as soon as possible.

Or you could just avoid dental issues altogether by ensuring your guinea pig eats a healthy balanced diet!

Hair Grooming

If you’ve chosen a guinea with seriously long locks, you’re going to have to regularly groom their coat to prevent it becoming matted and tangled.

Grooming needs to be introduced slowly and positively with patience and rewards as guineas may not naturally take to it.

You should also be aware of what your guinea’s own personal grooming habits are, as if they suddenly change, it may indicate an issue.

Flystrike

Flystrike is a hazard which occurs often in hot weather and is fatal in guinea pigs if contracted.

It occurs when flies become attracted to droppings or stained urine around your pig’s rear area and begin laying their eggs within the skin of your pet.

Ensure in the summer months you observe your pet’s rear end twice a day and clean away any dirt to prevent flystrike from occurring.

When To Go To The Vet

You should seek the help of a veterinary professional as soon as you suspect or notice your guinea pig in pain, ill or suffering.

However, guinea pigs aren’t like every other animal and so seeking veterinary help is not as easy as popping to the local vet surgery.

Make sure you are prepared for the worst and already have your pet registered with a vet who specialises in guinea pigs should they ever become ill.

The post Guinea Pig Care Guide appeared first on Petz.

Guinea Pig Sound Chart

Happy Guinea Pig Sounds

Wheeking — The Classic Guinea Pig Sound

The iconic wheek is a loud, high-pitched whistle that guinea pigs use almost exclusively with their human owners. You’ll hear it when they see you approaching with food, hear the fridge opening, or when it’s feeding time. Some guinea pigs wheek for attention, essentially “shouting” until you come over. It’s a sound of excitement and anticipation — and one of the most endearing guinea pig traits. Frequent wheeking when you’re nearby is a sign your guinea pig recognises you and associates you with good things.

Purring (Low-Pitched) — Contentment

A deep, low, continuous purring means your guinea pig is relaxed and happy. You’ll often hear this during gentle stroking, especially along the back. It’s the guinea pig equivalent of a cat’s purr. If your guinea pig purrs while being petted, you’ve found their favourite spot — keep going!

Chutting / Clucking — Exploring Happily

Soft, rhythmic clucking sounds (sometimes called “chutting” or “bubbling”) indicate a content, curious guinea pig. You’ll hear this during floor time, when exploring new areas, or when foraging for food. It’s a background hum of happiness — like a guinea pig humming to themselves.

Warning and Aggressive Sounds

Rumble Strutting — Dominance Display

A deep, resonating rumble accompanied by a distinctive side-to-side swagger (the “rumble strut”) is a dominance behaviour. Males use it during courtship, but both sexes use it to establish hierarchy. If two guinea pigs are rumble-strutting at each other, they’re negotiating who’s boss. This is usually normal — only intervene if it escalates to teeth chattering or physical fighting.

Teeth Chattering — Back Off!

Teeth chattering is a clear warning: “I’m angry, and I will bite if you don’t back off.” The rapid, sharp clicking sound is often accompanied by raised hackles (puffed-up fur), a rigid posture, and sometimes foot-stamping. If you hear this during handling, put your guinea pig down gently. Between guinea pigs, it can precede a fight — separate them if it persists.

Hissing — Defensive Aggression

Similar to teeth chattering but quieter, hissing is a more controlled warning. It means your guinea pig wants to be left alone. Common in guinea pigs that haven’t been socialised well or are in pain. Respect the boundary — don’t force interaction.

Distress Sounds — Act Immediately

Shrieking / Screaming — Pain or Terror

A loud, piercing shriek is the guinea pig equivalent of screaming. It means your guinea pig is in severe pain or extreme fear. Check immediately for:

• Injury (caught foot, bitten by cage mate)
• Something stuck (water bottle, hay rack)
• Predator presence (cat or dog too close)

If there’s no obvious cause and the screaming continues, contact a vet — guinea pigs rarely scream without serious reason.

Whining / Moaning — Unhappy

A soft, nasal whining sound means your guinea pig is uncomfortable or annoyed. Common during unwanted handling (being held too long), when a dominant cage mate is bullying them, or when they need the toilet during lap time. It’s a gentle “I’d rather not” — respect it by adjusting the situation.

Chirping — The Mysterious Sound

Chirping sounds exactly like a bird singing — it’s one of the rarest and most mysterious guinea pig vocalisations. Researchers still aren’t certain what triggers it. When chirping, guinea pigs often enter a trance-like state, sitting motionless while “singing.” It’s most commonly associated with stress, anxiety, or grief (often heard after losing a companion), though some owners report it in seemingly content guinea pigs. If your guinea pig chirps, observe closely for signs of stress or illness.

Understanding Body Language with Sounds

Guinea pig sounds are easiest to interpret with accompanying body language:

• Popcorning (jumping and twisting mid-air) + wheeking = pure joy
• Freezing (completely still) + no sound = fear
• Raised hackles + teeth chattering = about to fight
• Lying flat, relaxed + low purring = complete contentment
• Hiding + soft whimpering = scared, needs security

FAQs

Why does my guinea pig wheek at night?

Guinea pigs are crepuscular (most active at dawn and dusk), so some nighttime wheeking is normal. Persistent nighttime wheeking usually means they want food, water, or attention. Ensure fresh hay is available overnight, as guinea pigs graze constantly. If nighttime noise is disruptive, don’t place the cage in your bedroom.

Should I worry if my guinea pig never makes noise?

Quiet guinea pigs exist, but a suddenly silent guinea pig that was previously vocal could indicate illness or depression. Guinea pigs are social animals — solo guinea pigs may become withdrawn and quiet. The RSPCA recommends keeping guinea pigs in pairs or groups for their mental wellbeing. If your guinea pig stops making noise entirely, monitor for other signs of illness.

Do guinea pig sounds mean they like me?

Yes! Wheeking when they see you, low purring during handling, and chutting while exploring near you are all signs of a positive bond. Guinea pigs reserve wheeking primarily for their human owners — it’s a sound they rarely make with other guinea pigs. If your guinea pig wheeks at the sound of your voice or footsteps, they consider you their favourite person.

The post Guinea Pig Noises & Sounds: What They Mean (Complete Guide 2026) appeared first on Petz.

Unlike hamsters and other rodents, you can end up caring for guinea pigs over a good number of years, so you need to be sure you are committed to providing the proper care and devotion for a sustained length of time.

To prolong their life, ensure they have enough space in their cage and to run around in. You need to buy quality dedicated guinea pig food for them, as well as keep them in a pair (or more if possible).

Naturally, there are many factors that can influence how long or short a guinea pig lives and these mainly depend on breed, diet and medical issues.

Average Guinea pig lifespan by breed

Although their actual care and living environment have more of an influence on their lifespan, certain breeds of guinea pigs are known to live slightly longer.

Here’s a quick guide to how long certain breeds live:

• Teddy: 4 – 5 years
• Texel: 4 – 7 years
• American, Cuy: 4 – 8 years
• Abyssinian: 5 – 7 years
• Himalayan, Peruvian, Sheltie, Silkie, White-crested: 5 – 8 years
• Skinny: 7 – 8 years

Be prepared for your guinea pig to live longer

Before purchasing a guinea pig, bear in mind that they can live much longer than the suggested average lifespan, especially if you take really good care of them!

Some Guinea Pigs have been known to live almost twice as long as the average lifespan, which means these little furries could well be with you for a significant part of your life!

The oldest ever guinea pigs

The oldest guinea pig ever recorded was named Snowball. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, it lived for a remarkable 14 years and 10.5 months!

Dying in February 1979, this wise old pig lived through some remarkable moments in history from the signing of the 1964 Civil Rights Act to the birth of the first ‘test-tube’ baby in 1978. However, it’s not known if news of these great happenings ever spread to his hutch in rural Nottinghamshire.

Since then, many others have tried to take Snowball’s crown come the turn of the century.

A Grimsby guinea named Bear, who was 14, almost took the World Record, being just months off the title before passing away.

And the owner of an Australian guinea named Sweetie believes the record was broken a long time ago. Sweetie’s owner claims the seriously old Guinea Pig lived between October 1996 and June 2014, which is an astonishing 17 years and 8 months.

However, it’s thought that record keepers were never able to correctly determine his exact age, and so Snowball remains the world’s wisest piggy.

How to give your guinea pig a long life

There are several things you can do to best care for your little guinea, giving them the best chance of living a long fruitful life.

Diet & exercise

Just like humans, a good diet and exercise can help fend off disease and illness in guinea pigs and is the key to a long-lasting life.

To provide sufficient exercise, you need to make sure your guinea has a large enclosure that offers them plenty of space to run around and play. This can be encouraged with tunnels and stimulating toys.

As for diet, guinea’s need high-quality grass and hay for digestion as well as plenty of vitamin-C rich foods. So try and give them a balanced diet of hay, pellets and fresh veg!

As an example, the previously mentioned 14-year-old Bear lived on a diet of Kale and was regularly taken for walks by his owner. There’s no denying these things had a huge impact on Bear’s health and wellbeing, and so you should look to provide the same level of care. Although we still can’t promise your own piggy will live quite as long as that!

Social interaction

Guinea pigs are very social creatures and not only do they need to spend lots of time with you, but they also need a bonded cagemate! This prevents them from getting lonely, depressed or bored, which are things all bound to have a negative effect on their health and lifespan.

Healthcare

Sometimes medical issues are out of our control, but they are measures you can take to best prevent your pet from becoming ill.

The easiest way to do this is by creating a healthy environment and promoting good hygiene by regularly cleaning their living area. You should also be in contact with an exotic vet to ensure that you can seek advice or medical help should the need ever arise.

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